Mar 29, 2021

From Paul P.


Hey Paul, 
My wife and I both teach, so we have been home the last year. Our son is in college, so has been home the last year. Surfing is my ONLY alone time.  
I drive alone usually before the sun is up, surf alone, drive home alone. No friends, no family, no cameras. Just me, seeking out Grade D waves to avoid any crowds or the dark and fog of early morning.
It's glorious.

Conditions that would be marginal on a surfboard are often fantastic on the mat. It has saved my mental health this past year.
I have had my moments of that hum, that grab-the-outside-rail-and-lock-into-the-face moments.  But few.  Still, I have made progress, and have had a number of super fun sessions.

I have been running it with a 90 degree angle.  Which I check, frequently. Today, there were lulls.  At one point, I clipped the valve with my gloved hand (water temp is 49 right now) , and in the ensuing moments, I lost a ton of air. I saw a set coming in, but I was fold-over-on-itself low. I went for it, caught a set wave, and could not believe that I made the drop, but kept going....with more control than usual.

So much to learn.

I keep bringing my surfboard...but it stays dry in the back of my truck.

Have had major insomnia this last year.  Stress is awesome.  I find visualizing riding a mat calms my brain and puts me right to sleep.
Thanks for opening my perspective to what's possible on a wave.

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