I now live in San Francisco and wanted to share my experience having spent about 6h in the water with my "standard" surf mat at Ocean Beach, SF. With each session I unlock more insights:
Session 1: I caught my first wave and went full on projectile-mode. Zero control, just pure thrill as was thrown forward and held on for dear life. Hard work kicking through the waves out Ocean Beach, I didn't make it out a second time.
Session 2: I practiced pulling myself onto the mat during the take-off and experimented with applying pressure to steer in the white water.
Session 3: I began to take off directionally and learned to duck dive competently. I basically grab the corners and hug the mat as I try to get my head under the wave. I can stay centered over the mat and get back to paddling very quickly.
Session 4: I began to trim down the wave and tried steering by pulling up on the opposite corner. I figured out how to pull out of a wave which gave me more confidence with other surfers in the water.
Session 5: I was trimming well enough to beat the white water and extend my ride. I remember one wave where it just kept getting better as I went. I was laughing my ass off afterwards. I must have fully engaged the "2nd gear".
So far the mat hasn't disappointed. Each time I go out I intuit something new.
I think my experience with body surfing has helped a lot, trimming
feels similar. The mat really amplifies the sensation of speed which I
enjoy. Other surfers seem to be curious / perplexed by the mat when I
paddle out and then seem to "get it" when I take off on a bomb! I hope
my presence helps to spread the good word about surf mats because I've
yet to see another one in the wild.
Thank you for making surf mats, I'm hooked!
George
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