The mat riding footage in Crystal Voyager -- which was pinched from Greenough's 16mm inflatable opus, Rubber Duck Riders -- features some great riding not only by George, but from Mike Cundith as well.
Above is a classic image shot in 1970 at Rincon. Mike's body is loading up the inside rail, and he has a firm grip on the front rails...pulling the nose up to help initiate a quick, squirting bottom turn. The result of his technique is an incredibly small amount of wetted surface area...just a few square inches touching the water.
I can’t tell you how much joy these mats have brought me,
its hard to put into words. Since the storm season started I have been
blessed with some clean 2-4ft waves and both mats have been amazing! I
now skip beer at parties because Dawn Patrol waits for no man. These
mats have changed me for the better and I can’t help but want to share
that with other people. Chris and I have been catching some really fun
party waves and I hope to get you some video soon. Keep spreading the
Stoke Paul, your work has changed my life!
On another note, I was
wondering if you ever organize any mat meets. I would love to meet more
mat surfers, and I would definitely travel if I had enough time to plan
the trip. I am thinking about starting a meet up group in Jax FL to
expose people to mat surfing. I feel like there are people out there
that have never experience the joy of wave riding, and mats are a way to
bring this to them without the intimidation of a hard surf craft
tethered to their body. I wouldn’t charge anything for it, the joy that I
would get filling those people with Stoke would be more than enough.
There are thousands of Veterans out there who deal with some of the same
issues I was dealing with, and I if I can help just one of them the way
your mats have helped me, it will be worth it. The idea is still in its
infancy but you will be the first to know when I need some more mats
;-)!
If you have a reason to come north please let me know!
Last two evenings at the Lane -- more lotus fun! Lost the mat badly
yesterday, one of the longest swims in years, from the top of the
parking lot most of the way to Cowells. Probably good for me, I got
pretty winded.
Hope you are having fun and getting waves. October is your time, huh?
This quick video from Wardie Ward is a master class in mat riding. Nearly every frame holds a riding secret that took George decades to refine...
One of Greenough's slickest mat riding tricks involves grabbing the rails near the front of the deck and manipulating the nose area to adjust his track.
Some stills from the video illustrate this technique:
Here, George is trimming comfortably with his hands on the top of the deck...
As a section lifts up in front of him, he grips the outer part of the rails and creates a "bump" in the bottom...
The drag of the bump angles the mat's track upward and into the power...
Later, on the same wave, George employs the same technique on a smaller/weaker section. After a long run with his hands on the top of the deck, at the right moment he grips the rails and pulls up...
I'm really loving my new surf mat. Attaching a shot a friend took out
with the Del Mar Body Surfing crew at 17th Street on a recent sunny
Saturday morning.
Well after a bit of a spring flat spell. I finally found some decent waves to try my new XL out on..
As expected the mat went excellent from the first wave.
I did not find much difference in the slightly bigger mat compared to the Omni etc.
It allowed me into the waves easy and made some steep walls with little slip.
I particularly liked the "Hot Waxed Deck" it gave great grip when hit by white water.
Howzit
Mates? Have enjoyed another backpack adventure on Molokai. Lots very
good days riding the incredible Mini Max.
Heaps of new friends and
enlightening experiences. Gave the Lotus to a lovely family from da big
island with a ripping son who charged on the mat so hard that I just had
to turn it over. His GF rode it in NZ (see sbove).
Am back with Mom and
Dad in Gisborne. Everything is sweet. Hoping you are well and having
fun.
The
above video is of Paul N and I surfing one of my favorite pointbreaks,
Coco Pops, just us out on a Sunny Monday morning....ran Paul straight
over with my Omni..I never felt a thing either.
I
had two of my oldest grandkids down last weekend and took them down to
Gilligans for an adventure and swim, of course the surf was okay with
just a handful out. As luck should have it, their parents came down
early to pick them up, which left me a window of 3 hours to head back
with a surf, so after grabbing Paul, we met up with Neal for a late
soggy Sunday afternoon session.
Heaps of fun small waves to be had with a minimal crowd of longboarders to contend with.
Loving
the XL Super Sport! Chasing those inside closeouts is rewarding, you
get barreled, and you get a free Chiropractic session! I couldn’t get
enough!
These mats are so much fun! I don’t think I could be anymore stoked on
them! I have really only had waves over 3’ once since buying both mats,
but I’m getting a lot better at catching these small waves and milking
any juice they have in them. I can’t wait to learn some more!
Thanks
again for the mat! I’m still surfing almost every day.
Here is a
picture of me on a beautiful little clean wave! My buddy Chris Falzone
shot this, he rode the Fatty yesterday and loved it. The waves where too
small and week for any other surf craft but the mats where flying. He
should be contacting you soon to add one to his quiver. Keep spreading
the Stoke! :-)