This is an interview from Surfline with Mark Cunningham. It pertains to body surfing, but much of it translates to mat surfing as well.
With over 20 years of experience as a lifeguard at
Pipeline, Mark Cunningham has spent more time in the water at the
“world’s deadliest wave” than most living souls. And that puts him on
the long list of greats including Gerry, Kelly, John John, Derek, Andy,
and so on.
But unlike his Pipe Specialist peers – who come from different eras
and dominated the wave on the specific surf craft of their day –
Cunningham occupies a special place amongst the ranks, since he does it
without a board. In fact, Cunningham has made such a name for himself
over many years of bodysurfing Pipeline (and other waves) that he’s
often considered the world’s best in the sans-surfboard waveriding
persuasion.
Which came first for you: surfing or bodysurfing?
Board surfing came first. I’m afraid to say how long ago that was,
but it was before leashes were invented. It was also during that
transition era, when the neighborhood guys were stripping down their
longboards and trying their best to adhere them to the newer designs.
But basically, we were riding really shitty equipment.
So, most of the time, I would fall off my board swim after it more
than I was standing on it as a growth-spurting, gangly teenager. There
was an older fellow at our local break who loved his bodysurfing; he was
a part-time lifeguard at Sandy Beach. He saw me bodysurfing after my
board all day long, and he said, ‘why don’t you try on these Duck Feet.’
And for that tall, gangly teenager, being in the water was much more
comfortable than trying to dance on top of it.
What insights does bodysurfing give you into waveriding, which surfing doesn’t?
It gives you a different
feel. You’re in the wave, you’re a
part of the wave, the wave’s energy is going through you. Bodysurfing is
a lot slower than board surfing. You don’t have this flotation device,
which allows you to go much slower. It slows down the whole wave dance,
as it were. And that gives you more time to feel it and appreciate it
all.
I board surf still and I sorta get stage fright. I feel like I’m so
exposed to the whole world. If it’s your turn and you’re in the spot,
all eyes are on you. And those expectations aren’t put on you as a
bodysurfer. Nobody expects you to rip, or to snag the wave of the day.
That makes bodysurfing more enjoyable, less stressful – at least for me.
Physically, the benefits of bodysurfing – or swimming – are
pretty apparent when it comes to surfing. But how can bodysurfing help
your surfing mentally?
Bodysurfing affords you patience. You’re not going to get the peak
wave, you’re not going to be in pole position. Likely, there’s going to
be a surfer or bodyboarder who’s going to beat you to that spot. As a
bodysurfer, you’re more of a bottom-feeder sitting in the channel.
You’re feasting on the scraps, hoping guys will eat shit, and you can
pick off their wave on the shoulder. In that sense, it sort of humbles
you; it makes you appreciate waves a bit more, because when you get one
it’s a real treat. And because, with a board, you’re paddling like a
rabid dog and going after anything you can catch. You’re not as mobile
bodysurfing. It slows things down a bit.
It teaches you an appreciation for waves and how precious they are. A
long ride bodysurfing is only a couple seconds before you’re swallowed
by whitewater. Bodysurfing makes board surfers appreciate waves when
they’re going so far and so fast and how much ground they’re covering.
How do you approach a wave differently in bodysurfing versus surfing?
Just like board surfing, it all depends on the break – how crowded it
is, how fast it is, is it a pointbreak, is it a slammer. At this point
in my life, I like longer and gentler rides. But growing up at Sandy
Beach, it was the quick reflex of hard, dumping shorebreak.
Positioning in bodysurfing is definitely different. For example, out at
Pipeline,
you’re not going to be jockeying for position at the peak. Even if it
was empty. It’s just too steep and too fast; the body can’t do that. So,
you’re more so on the shoulder, where you at least have a chance to
ride the wave for a little while, as opposed to the wave freight
training without you.
What does bodysurfing offer that surfing does not?
It’s definitely a lot easier to travel as a bodysurfer. All you need
is a pair of fins and a towel. It’s also a great workout, head-to-toe.
You’re constantly treading water and that’s a full body workout just to
stay afloat. I also think bodysurfing is more of a challenge than board
surfing. Because like board surfing, the takeoff and the drop-in are the
hardest to learn. But once you’re on the face, and you’re trying to
achieve that synchronicity with the wave, you don’t have that flotation
device. Your body is the board, and you’re trying to get 150 or 200
pounds of weight moving on this wave all on its own. That makes it a bit
harder of a workout than board surfing.
What makes for a good bodysurfing wave?
Well, here’s an example: you never see a bodysurfer backdoor a wave at
Off-the-Wall.
It’s way too fast, steep, and hollow. A guy can drop in and get a glory
shot, then get worked on the reef. On the other hand, you’ll see quite a
few guys bodysurfing the shoulder at Pipeline, because it will taper
off and it will peel towards the Gums sandbar. Obviously, I’m prejudiced
towards Ehukai sandbar. I love sandbars, because I don’t have to worry
about being pummeled on rocks or reef. And then going the other
direction from Ehukai, Pupukea is a fun, softer, slower wave. I really
enjoy bodysurfing there. Whenever I’m watching surf videos, if I see
guys doing a bunch of cutbacks, I think that’d be a good bodysurfing
wave. I’d be able to get a good glide on that wave. That snowballing
whitewater will propel me down the line.
Then, in California, the preeminent spot is the
Wedge.
And I’ve seen beautiful shots out there, which make me fantasize about
getting a piece of that. But in reality, it’s more often than not a
crazy, life-threatening, crash-and-burn on the sand type of wave. Don’t
get me wrong, the Wedge is an amazing wave. But I’m glad I’m not 20
years old anymore, because I’d have to go prove myself out there.
What makes for good bodysurfing fins?
I’ve been wearing Da Fin for about 20 years, because it’s a very soft
shoe pocket and a plenty powerful blade. Back in the day, when I first
started lifeguarding and bodysurfing, you had two choices: it was either
the ultra-soft and comfortable Churchills, which weren’t powerful; or
you had the Duck Feet that were longer and stiffer, and although they
were less comfortable, they were more powerful.
Nowadays, with the advent of bodyboarding, there are so many fins on
the market that I just tell people to go with whatever fits their foot
the best. A lot of those bodyboarding fins are shorter and stubbier –
the bodyboarders don’t need as much blade; and they want to pull their
fins out of the water for aerials and drop-knee – whereas I think
bodysurfers want more power and more blade.
What are some tips for surfers looking to get into bodysurfing?
Make sure your suit stays on. Know how to swim. Kick like hell when
you’re in the water – and that means matching your momentum with the
wave, which is so much harder when you don’t have a board under you. And
finally, come out of the water smiling. If you don’t come out of the
water more stoked than when you went in, then you’re doing it all wrong.
