Mar 30, 2009

More Mat Riding History ...

From the early days of Nor Cal surfing ... Looks like the mat surfer is one of the few blokes with enough sense to use a decent wettie!



Mar 28, 2009

Early Mat Surfing...

Image from 1935 ... with a pedigree including Conde Nast and Vogue, no less!

Mar 26, 2009

Shout out to JJ ...

Recently, I got this shot from Jonathan J, and a note complaining that he didn't have enough room for all his mats, and the entrance to his garage was now permanently blocked.


If anybody has his cell, give him a ring and let him know that mats are deflatable!

Mar 25, 2009

From Girlfriends to Water Safety to Weight Loss ... Inflatables Rule!!!


Direct from the San Fernando Valley, of course...


If you like swimming in deep water, you probably should learn how to swim!



Is this Jay Norris guilty of hoodwinking people? Yes he is!!!!

Mar 23, 2009

From Jonathan J ... Black and Blue Prototype 4GF Impresssions




Hello Paul!

I discovered my package on my porch last night...totally stoked!

My first impression was that you struck gold with this new fabric. The tactility of both the black and the blue is spot-on...perfect applications for both top and bottom skins!

Right away I could tell the canvas-like feel of the black was gonna be the ticket for ideal adhesion qualities. The blue bottom is the perfect counter-part to the deck...slick and responsive to a wave's varying texture.

I took it out for her maiden voyage this morning, close by in Newport Beach. I wasn't anticipating stellar results, given the predicted surf conditions for Saturday. (1 to 2 foot leftover combo swell w/ onshore winds.) I was thinking, "I don't care how crappy it is, I'm going anyway!" Much to my delight, it was more like 1 to 3 foot and semi-glassy! Finally, a decent demo day.

I really dug the black top! The mat stayed right where I wanted it the entire time. It made positioning, duck-diving, paddling, way more intuitive...meaning, you never really had to think about it much, and that's a good thing. Both fabrics really work well together. I love the fact that it's a little stiffer, yet still responsive to hand-jive, bending arcs, etc...

On one wave in particular, I was able to build a sufficient "rail", to make this screaming fast section. It culminated in a decent barrel with the classic close out but, traveling across that steepest part of the wave, as brief as it was, I felt like I was on rails!

That was the wave I came in on. (I only fed so many quarters into the parking meter.)Would I have traded that one wave for a $40.00 ticket? You bet I would!

P.S. Another cool thing I noticed as I was walking up the beach...the blue bottom of the mat had almost turned to black when it was wet. Is the latest 4GF a sort of mood ring? "Paint It Black" could be matspeak for "Go out there and get wet already!"

Take care,

JJ

Mar 19, 2009

New Mat and Fippers!


I'm so super-stoked on the prototype mat that PG sent me that I had to get new flippers to go with it! There have been some fun waves down here lately, and I've been having a blast with my new toys:

The Blacktop Bluebelly mat rides great, and gets better with each session, as the fabric becomes more supple. I'm calling it the Blue Groove because the iridescent bottom fabric reminds me of when racing tracks get sticky rubber laid down and the fastest line is on the shiny "blue groove". I really like the new canvas-like heavy-duty nylon deck, which allows subtle shifting around while still providing good grip. After eight bareback surfs, I've yet to develop a canvas rash! The slightly thicker blue bottom fabric holds a line better without any loss of speed. Handling is smooth and sure with superior "suspension" to even out bumpy water. The new mat is far more robust and will probably last for a very long time. Overall, The Fatty with fresh materials is a big step forward in performance, user friendliness, and probable durability...

...As is stepping up from Tech 2 flippers to Kicks, which have a bit more power and are way more comfortable. Kicks' big brother, Da Fin, have a tiny bit more kicking speed, but Kicks are softer on my feet and the round shape is easier to maneuver with. I like the keel ridges on the sides for steering with. They float, are bright so as to retrieve them if they come off, and don't look much like anything a shark would want to eat.

Tech 2s are good for shorebreak because they drain sand out very quickly and have super-short blades for when you need to touch the bottom, run up the sand, flip around quickly... However, when I get going ultra-fast and drag my foot, Tech 2s scoop water and balloon up, causing the brakes to go on, and sometimes even pulling the flipper off. We'll see if this happens with Kicks. Da Fin don't seem to have this problem. So far, so good with my new Kicks...

I'll see if I can get someone to take some action shots this weekend.

Mar 9, 2009

My Baby Picture

Just had to reprint this photo from like '62 -- inspired by the priceless photo second post below!

More mid-50's Lilo Action!


Mar 5, 2009

One Day To Remember ...


Hi Paul,

Have you ever thought about writing about your best surf-mat surf trip? I, for one, would love to hear more about your stealth adventures.

It's funny how many times in the last few months a senior citizen will come up to me as I come in from matting to say, "You have so much fun!" What can you say? I usually have said, "I know it's kinda ridiculous, but so much fun." One German gal summed it up in a way that sticks in my head, "Theez is vaat zee life eez about." It sure is fun.

Jeff C.



Hey Jeff,

This is a slam dunk question to answer... but I don't have any photos to illustrate it! (Which is apropos, since no one else was there that day.)

When I woke up one Thanksgiving Day in the mid-80’s, it was threatening rain, and it had been flat for a week. I was fully absorbed in riding the nylon mats at the time, and I was getting in the water 3-5 times a week…so I was in really good shape. But, since it was about to rain and we were in the middle of flat spell, surfing was the last thing on my mind.

Around 8:30 AM friend called me up from the South Bay and said it was closed out in front of his house, and the wind was straight off shore. (Which is often the case in the South Bay on rainy days.)

So, I threw my gear in the car and headed down to Rincon for a look-see. Sure enough, it was 3-4 feet in the cove, but with a faint, rainy-day southeast bump. No one was in the water. Not one person. A few guys hanging out in the lower lot…that was it.

I figured the best call was the Overhead. It can handle south wind better, since it faces a more northwest direction than the local points. I toyed with the idea of going back home and getting my spoon, since Overhead was a great spoon wave. But, I decided to stick with the mat, and headed south.

As I drove past Faria, there was swell showing, featuring a slight south bump that would surely get worse as the day progressed. Still no one out. (It was Thanksgiving day, mind you…but this was the first day of a swell before mass-media surf predictions and instantaneous surf reports.)

The outer reef at Overhead was cracking, as expected, and wind and texture were a lot better. That was the call, but I wanted to go down and check out California Street. The long, long walls there were made-to-order for the "new" mats. Unlimited speed potential when it was over 4 feet.

When I got there, the sets were 6 feet. The wind was from the south, but not ruining it. Like all the other spots that morning, no one was in the water. I figured I'd get out there and snag 2 or 3 walls across the point before the wind destroyed it.

I suited up and walked all the way past the Pipe, towards Hobo Jungle. I wanted to paddle out up top, and drift down with the current, especially since the swell was consistent, and I’d be punching through the white water on a mat.

I slipped out during a lull without even getting my hair wet, and started moving from the Pipe down towards the parking lot. The wind was starting die down, but there was a residual south bump lingering. I picked up a wave in front of the lot, and rode it all the way down to the pier. Great fun. The swell had more depth than was apparent from the beach.

After I pulled out of my first wave, I decided to stay in the water rather than go into the beach and walk back up. I paddled out parallel to the pier, then worked my way back up the point. As I was kicking along, the wind started blowing again, but this time it was from the north/northwest…¾ offshore from behind. The ideal wind direction for California Street. I looked over towards the parking area, and there were still only a handful of cars there, and none of them appeared to be surf cars. It started to dawn on me, this was going to be an epic go out!

It was still overcast, but out towards the islands, there was a large patch of blue sky starting to show. That meant that the bulk of the daylight was coming from the west. It was maybe 10:30 in the morning, when the sun is usually coming from the opposite direction, but the waves were backlit…like morning in Queensland. My favorite lighting to surf!

A handful of other surfers paddled out during the session, but I never came into contact with them. I rode so many wave across the point, it seemed like I spent as much time riding waves as paddling. And I could let waves go that I would usually kill for, just to watch them break, unspoiled. A rare feeling, even back then.

What was the most interesting was being able to take any line I wanted on a wave, with no fear of someone taking off in front of, or behind, me. And no fear of blowing a precious wave, either. When I screwed up, there were plenty more where that one came from!

I tried riding my mat with so little air, my chest was almost touching the bottom skin. And I rode a few waves blown up almost rock solid, just to feel the rail hold in like a fin. Each extreme worked, but in a profoundly different way. What worked the best, overall, was the 90 bend we had been happy with for a year or two. But it was fun to try variations with no pressure (pun intended) to make the most of every wave.

After 4 hours, I finally started to get a cramp in one of my calves, so I reluctantly came in.

What I came away with from this day is that when it comes to riding good waves on a mat, less is more. Less turning, less concentration on myself. I just started to feel my way along, the way you do when you ride a mat in the dark. And, the exact opposite of how one might surf in a modern, competitive/photographic environment.

Later that evening, another friend called and asked if I surfed that day. He said he’d been in the water at Faria all afternoon, and a few guys came and went, but that was it. He had it to himself. He was riding a fin-forward hull, and conveyed a lot of the same observations I had about my day in the water down in Ventura. “I stood there and did nothing on most waves…just flying…it was incredible!”

I looked at the surf the next day, and it was a Victory-At-Sea, post-rain-front blow-through, with 30 knot west winds, and dozens holiday surfers out at every spot. At the time, I certainly appreciated what I had experienced the day before…but not as much as I do now! I don’t think I got in the water again for another week.

I still have the mat I rode that day, BTW. In fact, it was the original "Standard" 4GF shape. Since then, the canvas strips got peeled off, and several other non-skids have been added. It's a damn mess now! The last time I went surfing, a few days after Christmas in 2008, I rode that mat because I knew I wouldn’t be in the water anytime soon, and I wanted to see how it felt after all these years.

The first wave it jumped into second gear before I got to the bottom of a 4 foot wave!

Feb 26, 2009

"Try to Get Out Into Some Head High or Bigger Waves"

Tell me why I was looking right when that is clearly a left?

Easier said than done!

My third session on the mat came after an hour and a half on the surfboard. It's becoming clear to me now that matting is a hell of a good full body workout. You've got to have some gas in the tank in order to get the most out of a mat session. I'd say my tank was only half full when I went out today. And yes, the waves, the set waves, were head high. Paddling out was, in a word, brutal. I had no idea how to get to the outside with all of these head high waves coming at me. I couldn't kick hard enough to get past them before they broke. I couldn't really duck dive them. All I could do was try to dive under them while leaving my arm outstretched in an attempt to let the mat pass over the waves. When I did get outside, I was tired, almost too tired to try for waves. This session presented me with more variables than I could process at one time.

I'd put less air in the mat this time. That in itself presented me with challenges I hadn't anticipated. It was harder to stay on the mat with less air. And as I'd get into a wave, the front of the mat would curl under before I pulled it up to start the ride. It was all so very confusing. I can also say it was also very enjoyable.

Now, help me here. Somebody say something about paddling out. Say anything. I don't have anyone I mat with and I'm learning this on my own. What are some of the techniques you use to paddle out?

Prana, I'm officially calling you out. I need a session with you, please. I'm willing to come down to where you are. It's time for some coaching. I'm definitely a visual learner. I need to see someone who knows what he's doing. I nominate you.

Feb 24, 2009

Marc B ... The Flying Dutchman!

Hi Paul,

The new mats on surfmatters look great! If they work out I will be there to place an order. The blue ones look very nice.

This picture is me, two weeks ago on my home spot in The Netherlands, called Scheveningen. Scheveningen is the "Dutch California," and the most popular spot. The concentration of surfers is pretty big in Scheveningen. On nice days there are like 50 to 80 surfers in the water!

It's too cold for mat surfing now....

Greets,

Marc B.

Feb 23, 2009

Mat Session #2

I was determined to get on the mat today, so much so that I left the surfboard at home.

After the first session, I went on a hunt for matting videos on YouTube. KenDog brings it on those videos. I was finally able to see how one gets the mat into a wave. I've also had a chance to see Pranaglider in the water. For all intents and purposes, they are my teachers.

I think I'm beginning to get the hang of it. Question: Once you're on the wave, do you keep kicking in order to get to or stay with the shoulder? Or is it all in the angle of the mat? How do you steer this thing?!?!

The pictures below are a sequence of what was, I guess, my best wave. Of course, since I was at the home break, it was a closeout. Feel free to critique my form since I really have no idea what I'm doing.


Feb 22, 2009

Spring 2009 4GF Prototypes


Hey Everybody,

I've been out of material since last summer, when I made 40 mats before we moved to Washington state. That's the inventory we've been selling since we've been here. We're down to 2 XL's as of today.

Since I knew we would need more material by Spring, and since I've been stuck in the snow and rain for the last 3 months, I've had time to do some material research. The fabric company we've been using since 1984 has been tremendous. But, their prices doubled in 2007, doubled again in 2008, and we're looking at another increase this year. Plus, the minimum quantity has gone up. So, that has given me the impetus to look around for alternatives more aggressively.

There aren't too many places that make the quality material needed to make mats that are durable and perform well. I did come across a fabric manufacturer who had a very complete sample catalog, and they've been willing to work with us. (Meaning, they know we're small time, but are still interested in our business.) And their prices are low enough to allow us to hold our current retail cost ($250 plus S/H) for at least a year ... and hopefully much longer.

The down side of any new material is that it's an unknown in terms of performance and durability. The spec sheets of this new stuff shows a tear strength and seam adhesion of approximately 85% to 90% of our current material. That may be acceptable, but we won't know until we get some serious water time in on the 4 prototypes I finished earlier this afternoon.

One thing is for sure ... there is no way any 4GF mats will go out to customers until we're reasonably certain that the fabric will hold up for at least a couple years of hard use.

I'm sending the new prototypes off to George G. in tomorrow's mail. He gets in the water every day, and has a deep working knowledge of the current state of the art, mat-wise. So, there's no reason not to turn over the field testing to him and his buddies.

Here are the four prototypes mats he'll be testing. All four are Fatties. My thinking is that this is the most versatile 4GF shape, so George and his friends can get in the water almost every day with no worries. I'm sending them off with no non-skid, since I don't have an indoor, ventilated place to glue them up here, and it's too cold to do it outside...


The Black Mat is made of an extremely heavy nylon material on the deck that is as coarse, or coarser, than a new Converse. When I saw a small sample of this fabric, I thought it was too stiff to make a high performance mat. But, the texture was plenty grippy enough to use with no non-skid.

Even though this black material is much more expensive per yard, there would be none of the labor and expense normally associated with any of the non-skids currently being used. (Rubber Grit, Vulkem, Diamond Back patches, etc.) So, it might pay for itself.

I ordered a short sample roll of the Black "Canvas" to try it on the deck in conjunction with thinner material on the bottom. (I ran this idea past Jonathan J. a few weeks ago, and he immediately equated it with the old Merrin Peelers.)

We need to test the deck adhesion. (The grip is incredible when it's wetted out...better than an old canvas mat when it's new.) But the main problem, of course, is the loss of performance due to the stiffness of the fabric. Perhaps the material will soften up with use, eventually breaking in to become a good mat. Then again, as it breaks in, the deck might lose some of its texture. Who knows until we try it...

This fabric is a complete unknown, and it will take at least a month to get it broken in and sorted out.



I love this stuff on the deck!


The orange bottom fabric is a rip-stop similar in weight to what we use now.




The White Mat is made of material that weighs out the same as what we have now, but it's weaker when you test it to destruction. I'm not optimistic that this stuff will work. So, what I did with this material sample is make a shape that George has been asking for since last summer. It's a stock Fatty, lengthened 2", with a Velo-style arc tail with sharp corners in the rear. I made a Standard 4GF with an arc tail for him last year. He liked it at times, but thought it rode "too short" at others. Hence, the 2" increase in length.

I hope he gets enough waves to get a feel for the design change before it pops. It feels pretty flimsy.


The forward black line is the stock Fatty tail, while the rear line is the welded-up Arc tail 2" further back.

The Orange Mat is made of a rip-stop with is supposed to be roughly same weight as the material we use now, but it weighs out much lighter. It has a crisp feel to it. There isn't as much stretch to the fabric, since it has the rip-stop threads running through it. This mat seems like it should be stronger since it's made of rip-stop, but it might actually be weaker over time since there isn't as much "give" to it, and most of the loading will go directly to the seams. It feels kind of toy-like. But, that may be the orange color. Again, who knows until we try it.


The Blue Mat is made of 100 x 70 denier fabric, with a twill weave. Our current fabric is a 70 x 70 denier taffeta. I didn't like this stuff when I saw a small sample, but I got a short roll of it anyway. After I was able to see and handle the fabric in mat-sized lengths, I had a change of heart. It's heavier, weight wise, but, as is well known in the fabric world, twill weave is more pliable than a taffeta weave.





The twill weave seems to absorb more water than the taffeta weave. I wetted out one pontoon to show how much water it appears to draw in.

The advantage of the 100 x 70 denier twill is that it feels as soft or softer than the lighter taffeta, but weighs more, especially wet. It might help prevent mats from blowing away in heavy winds, and it might ride smoother on bumpy waves as well.

I'm the most optimistic about the Blue Twill Mat. The material has a nice, substantial feel to it, along with a soft pliability factor.

I'm getting another short roll of the Blue Twill in a few weeks. I want to make a mat with the coarse Black Canvas stuff on top and the Blue Twill on the bottom. (I didn't have enough Blue Twill to do that this time around.) That might be a killer app for those two fabrics.

I really want the coarse Black Canvas to work on the deck! I covered the top of a Standard 4GF with cotton canvas fabric a few years ago, and the extreme stiffness (due to the canvas/nylon fabric deck lamination) ruined the performance completely, even after an entire summer of break-in. But the feel of having a 100% canvas deck was just great. I kept going out on it just because it was so much fun to be on. So, fingers crossed that the black stuff breaks in over time. It's stiff, but no where near as stiff as an old canvas mat ... it might just work.

Two other things...

The colors of these mats are the stock colors of these particular fabrics. If I order larger quantities, then we can get anything in black. I hate the orange and loathe the white ... but the electric blue color of the 100 x 70 twill is neat. It looks better in person than it does in the pictures.

The other thing is weight. I went ahead and weighed these four mats and a stock Fatty, all with no non-skid. I also weighed them wetted out, so I could get an idea of the water absorption the Blue Twill and Black Canvas in comparison to the taffeta and rip-stop.

Orange Rip-Stop Fatty
Dry - 10.80 oz. Wet - 12.40 oz. (Plus 1.6 oz.)

Current Taffeta Fatty
Dry - 15.00 oz. Wet - 16.3 oz. (Plus 1.3 oz.)

White Taffeta Fatty
Dry - 15.00 oz. Wet - 16.3 oz. (Plus 1.3 oz.)

Blue Twill Fatty
Dry - 15.80 oz. Wet - 17.70 oz. (Plus 1.9 oz.)

Black "Canvas" Fatty
Dry - 23.90 oz. Wet - 30.70 oz (Plus 6.8 oz)

The Orange Rip-Stop is much lighter than the spec sheet claimed, the Blue Twill soaked up more water than the taffeta, but not way-more, and the Black "Canvas" was heavy to start with, and absorbed a lot of water as well. Of course, there would be no non-skid added to the Black Canvas deck mat, so its dry and wet weights are "all-up," while the other four mats will have a few ounces added by the non-skid.

But again, these numbers mean nothing. It's just a test to see if you are as far gone into mat geekdom as me. If you've read this far, GET HELP!

This is my uber-tech mat weigh station. And yes, I re-weighed the box after each wet mat was extracted...

Feb 20, 2009

Diminishing Returns



Theses two shots of George, taken 40 years apart, tell an interesting story. In the top shot he’s riding a Stripes Down Hodgeman in 1969 -- the best surf mat of that era, but a slug by today’s standards -- in virtually perfect, uncrowded surf. In the lower shot, he’s riding a state-of-the-art nylon mat a few days ago in what amounts to a slop wave on a slop day at a slop spot.

I had the same reaction as Dale S. when I first saw those shots of George taken a few days back at Wategoes. It seemed like a shame. Here’s one of the 10 best surfers from the past 100 years, and he isn’t able to express his art in waves that are anywhere near the quality that were once commonplace for him. The intensity of the local crowds have overwhelmed a man who is both in his mid 60’s, and who grew up riding excellent, uncrowded surf. It just isn’t in the cards for him to crack Lennox with 85 guys out in hopes of snagging a few good waves. Even if he succeeded, which he surely would, it wouldn’t be a meaningful experience for him.

So, in many ways, George is being true to what has always motivated him to surf. And that’s why I have so much respect for him as a person. Too many times I’ve pulled up to some out of the way break with him on a marginal day, waited 15 minutes for a rideable wave to barely break, then watched him tear off his civvies, pull on a wetsuit and run into the water. That’s the real reason why George Greenough, and anyone like him, is a great surfer. Whatever perfect surf he once rode -- and the incredible equipment he developed to ride it -- were a distant second to the experience of simply being in the ocean. The fact that he had these experiences growing up surfing in an idyllic place like Santa Barbara in the 50’s is just a footnote.

“Diminishing returns” describes the circumstance most of us are dealing with in terms of surfing and in life…especially if we’re over 50. But it’s all relative. I’m sitting up here in Walla Walla, Washington, of all places, caring for my mother who’s about to turn 91. My wife Gloria and I are watching a woman in dramatic decline. A woman who as recently as 3 years ago was taking care of her neighbors’ homes while they were away. It’s killing both Gloria and I to see her fade mentally and physically. And it’s killing me to do it in a place 5 hours from the ocean. I'd give anything to paddle out somewhere and catch a wave...any wave. But every single day here carries responsibility and has meaning. The next wave I ride, however mediocre, will probably the best wave of my life. The law of diminishing returns will be reversed, if only for a day.

When I saw Simon Perini’s shot of George on the beach with the mat I sent him 10 days earlier, I have to say, it was one of the most surrealistic moments of my entire life. I was a child when I first saw George burn across the wall between the Indicator and the Cove at Rincon on a mat. Now, here I am, some 45 years later, sending mats I made to the same guy. And my mother, who was there for my entire board/mat making experience, is now reduced to being my child, like so many aging parents. For a moment, when I saw that photo, I lost all sense of time. It was truly a case of, “Where did the last 45 years go???”


Feb 19, 2009

GG News ...

A few weeks back George called and ordered an XL 4Gf mat. For himself.

I was like, "Dude! What do you want with an XL? You weigh, like, 135 pounds!"

And he was like, "Oh, shit, I dunno. I want to try it at "XXXXXXXX" on small days." (Spot name censored.)

So off an XL went to him.

He called again the other day to say he's gotten his mat. That's the last I've heard so far. No word yet on how it works for him.

Then Jamie M, newly christened Australian via North Carolina, sent me this link tonight...

http://grassisgreenerproject.blogspot.com/2009/02/greenough-sighting.html

That mat sure looks big on George!!!



(Photos by Simon Perini ...)

Feb 16, 2009

Greenough



Hello to everyone, here's some photos of a G.Greenough super fan work (of course when it's flat.....), reproduction of george greenough hodgman mat, Udt's, one of his spoon (Velo) and his lovely boat (Crystal Voyager/innermost limits of pure fun movies), all that in a display case. thanks PG, keep up the good work !

Mat Riding...

...it's not annoying!

Santa Barbara Surfing Dot Com ran some shots of the estimable Kenny Hughes out at Rincon last weekend on a mat...along with a positive editorial observation on the socially friendly nature of mats. The photos were taken by David Powdrell.

http://www.santabarbarasurfing.com/2009/02/rincon-mat-surfer.html






Feb 11, 2009

More from JJ ...

Hello PG!

Here's some pics of the Hodgman kiddie mat I mentioned earlier. I layed the original box out on top...dimensions read: 20" x 36". Original pull rope still intact!

Amazingly, it's still holding air like it's big brother. Bottom side is pretty bleached out but, probably from some fun days in the sun.

If only they could talk...

Take care, JJ.




Feb 6, 2009

From JJ ..

Hello Again Paul!

I thought I'd show you that striped Hodgman that came with it's original box. Actually, at the time, I'd purchased two ... a kiddie -sized one, and the adult-sized one.


Hodgman box!





Hodgman "Funflote" taken out of box, and layed out flat in the atrium.





Inflated 3/4 view...still holdin' air after all these years!





Hodgman stamp.



Bottom view.


I'll send the pics of the smaller one next. It's neat that Hodgman even considered making a smaller version for kids.

JJ