Nov 4, 2009

From Brian...

(I have no idea what this pinup poster is about...but it seems appropriate! PG)


I got the Fatty out last was not crowded at all. A long wait on the sets but was able to pull into half dozen nice head high walls. Really clean, slightly offshore if not complete glass by sunset; right on the last corner of the reef/point.

Normally a place where I like to ride my Greg Liddle hulls just trying to race the sections and see how fast I can get those boards going...the section can verge on closing out. I have been waiting to get this spot with these conditions to see how the mat would perform. Suffice to say... YEEHAW!!!

By far the cleanest waves I ridden the mat in and wow, what a sensation; it was like flying on glass I guess! By the end of the session I was getting more confidant and started taking off deeper and deeper; it only got better. It seemed that if I was able to get in even earlier I could get even more speed for the last, fastest section. Whereas the first few waves I was dealing with going around the section or getting caught by the wash; the last few I was going through that section like a bullet. Grabbing the front of the mat to inflate the tail, to almost take a dragster like stance...leaning forward, head down the high line and hit the trough for that big turn. YEEAHHH!!! SO STOKED!!!

Funny to see one surfer's face as he attempted to drop in front of me, and I had more than enough speed to just bottom turn underneath and around him with ease. Deeper on the wave and getting more room to gain speed...still jazzed this morning!

Thanks for listening,


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