Aug 11, 2015

From Matt ...




At Fortunes Rocks, Biddeford, Maine,  we had  4'  waves yesterday.    I started surfing here in 1964.   This year I turn 64.  I have bad shoulder due to 20 years  of using a nail gun...carpenters take note....can't paddle.

First day....no flippers, small waves...didn't work

Second day , got my churchills, small waves...not very exciting.

Yesterday....easily pulled into a four footer...kick only, no need to paddle...used my flipper to turn,  experimented with squeezing the mat,   Got into a flat spot where the ride should have ended,  still going fast, got into a reform...let out a hoot...kept going...

A couple on the beach  complimented me on my rides....they saw me preparing to inflate the mat...they thought it was a yoga mat!....they got real excited watching me ride.

As we talked and watched the other surfers, it occurred to me that they were working way to hard for their waves.    Most standup rides that day were very short.  I think I got the longest ride of the day with my reform.

I ordered the fatty  because my preferred method of transportation is my motorcycle, an '84 650 nighthawk.

A perfect day...and hurricane season isn't even here yet!

Thanks Paul!

Matt J
Biddeford, Me. / Phoenix , az

4 comments:

Bob Liepman aka Sherm said...

I was a California surfer who spent summahs at Drakes Island. Used to ship my boards Railway Express to Kennebunk. My cousins own the Maine Diner and were avid surfers. I ride mats almost daily here on the Central Coast.

LESider said...

I spent my high school years surfing NH and lower Maine wish I knew then what I know now, going to have to go back and surf Short Sands in York on a mat, and I know of some point breaks that would be a blast on the mat…

Roger said...

There are a few of us surfmatinistas in New England.

Roger Crossland
Fairfield, CT

Vin Robitaille said...
This comment has been removed by the author.