Sep 8, 2015

From Tom ...

Hi Paul,

This year I've had quite a bit of water time, especially on the mats. Wear and tear is starting to show after five years of ab-use, though. Hissing corners and a two cuts from barnacles - but nothing an iron and a patch couldn't fix.

Just got back from two great sessions with Rob and the Tuskedbeast in SF. Here´s a clip of one of our sessions earlier this year:

I also managed to get into a river wave in a great city. Good vibes and mellow, courteous sliders there. (The other guy on the wave was standing on a Beater, smoking funky stuff and offered me a PBR at 9 in the morning.) I found getting onto the wave quite tricky and staying almost more so. Since the water is moving so fast the smallest movement, the slightest change of trim has an immediate profound effect.

The perspective is "different" - at a lower water-level the wave is cleaner, the bowl/drop deeper and on it, all you see is a wall of water coming at you.

(Sorry, the flic is lo-fi since parts where filmed with a phone):

Hope all is well.



tuskedbeast said...

Cool, Thom! Love the hissing sliding sound, and the gut-punch grunts at key points of directional mojo.

That was a fun session- hell, they all are.

That river wave video is really unique. The split screen tells me more about what it's like to be in a setup like that than any other river surf film I've seen. Well done.

For a few years, I felt like I'd never see another mat surfer. Now we are three! It's just so cool.

Anonymous said...

Glad you checked out the spot! That dude on the beater is a good buddy of mine. PBR's so it must have been a monday ;)


Simon said...

Phukin Rite Buddys....That was me!!!!! on the beater!!!!! Nice video!!!! Come again....Never to early for funky and pbr!!!!! simon, YUL!

tuskedbeast said...

The internet is an amazing thing.

Hey- let's completely restructure society to be human instead of goods oriented-- pass it on...