I was in Rhode Island for some hurricane swells back in September
and scored some great waves. I met a guy who would show up on a 4GF and
would pick out the best waves down the point and then take 30-45 mins
kicking leisurely way outside past all breaking waves, back up to the
top of the point and right into perfect position. He'd stay out
literally all day, wore a helmet, and didn't talk to anyone. Such a
great mat rider. See pictures attached.