Tuesday, April 20, 2010
Locals Only
I read a lot of stories about
locals and loyalism
I consider of myself as a local
of several spots really
but more than just surf spots
as much as
the small strip of coast where
I grew up
and still reside
I like to think a local is someone who works to develop,
over a period of time,
some personal sense of place of an area
With some knowledge of the history of a place.
A feeling for the geology of a place
how it is moving in geolocial time
In terms of the meeting of land and ocean
how is that interface changing?
Since it is always in flux
always moving
there is quite a bit to take in
Then there is knowledge of the
flora and fauna of a place,
as well as
things like climate.
Are we in a drought this year?
Last year?
Explictly important to surfing and surfers
but equally important to fisherman, boaters etc
What swells reach the coast? What directions do they come from
Where are the swells born and what seasons produce which swells.
Oh and how is the wind that time of year?
So a more than passing knowledge of
the characteristics of a place
not just where the locals park
(although thats good too)
not just a drinking relationship
with the current pack of
supposedly Alpha males
should characterize
a true local
but that's just me
I hope the next thing
I read about locals
is that they organized
a local
"Clean up the Beach" day
or
maybe
saved
someone
from drowning
by paying attention
to some visiting non-locals
an by using their "local knowledge"
to identify a dangerous situation
and safely extracted a visitor from harms way.
As to behavior in the water
try to keep in mind
that no one owns the waves
not even the locals
and that everyone out
is there
for the same thing you are
so share
smile
hoot!
When you develop
a sense of place
you can appreciate
the beach
the water
the day
as much as the waves
Posted by pranaglider
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