Sweet!Hello, Paul,
We hope that you're having a nice week.
Last week we had one last sunny morning before the marine layer and pea soup fog rolled in. The surf was a mix of SW swell and NW windswell, making for tight intervals between the waves and a lot of close-outs at the beach. It was too mixed up for the reefs. I had four of my favorite rides with me, the 5'10 keel fin fish, 6'2 swallowtail quad and 7'2 egg swallowtail, all Pendoflexes, and the 4th Gear Flyer Standard. The waves were about 2-4 feet, mostly closed out and crowded with surfers. Then, out of the corner of my eye, I saw the pelicans diving for fish in the empty swimming area and I decided to join them at their peak on my trusty 4th Gear Flyer Standard.
There were just pelicans and cormorants diving, and no people! My mat session was as fun as a barrel of monkeys! It was good practice for me to mat surf the beach, as I usually surf the reefs. After catching some inside corners, I was ready to take off on a close-out set wave just for the fun of it, and got a kick out of the free fall drop over the falls. This set me up for a couple of late take offs on set waves that had some shape. I even pulled into a couple of little barrels, enjoyed the vision and didn't lose my mat in the shore break closeouts. Yay!
All in all this was a great overall work out and such a joy. I was blessed to have fun surfing when I might have driven home without getting wet.
Thanks so much for making such great wave riding vehicles and sharing the fun with all of us.
Steve sends his "Hello" and stoked smile, too. . .
Aloha,
Cher
We hope that you're having a nice week.
Last week we had one last sunny morning before the marine layer and pea soup fog rolled in. The surf was a mix of SW swell and NW windswell, making for tight intervals between the waves and a lot of close-outs at the beach. It was too mixed up for the reefs. I had four of my favorite rides with me, the 5'10 keel fin fish, 6'2 swallowtail quad and 7'2 egg swallowtail, all Pendoflexes, and the 4th Gear Flyer Standard. The waves were about 2-4 feet, mostly closed out and crowded with surfers. Then, out of the corner of my eye, I saw the pelicans diving for fish in the empty swimming area and I decided to join them at their peak on my trusty 4th Gear Flyer Standard.
There were just pelicans and cormorants diving, and no people! My mat session was as fun as a barrel of monkeys! It was good practice for me to mat surf the beach, as I usually surf the reefs. After catching some inside corners, I was ready to take off on a close-out set wave just for the fun of it, and got a kick out of the free fall drop over the falls. This set me up for a couple of late take offs on set waves that had some shape. I even pulled into a couple of little barrels, enjoyed the vision and didn't lose my mat in the shore break closeouts. Yay!
All in all this was a great overall work out and such a joy. I was blessed to have fun surfing when I might have driven home without getting wet.
Thanks so much for making such great wave riding vehicles and sharing the fun with all of us.
Steve sends his "Hello" and stoked smile, too. . .
Aloha,
Cher
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