Dirk and I were talking on the phone the other night, and he was commenting on how many hours we spend anticipating surf days, preparing our equipment, travelling to spots, etc, relative to how many minutes -- or even seconds -- we actually spend ride waves. The ratio is insane by any measure...other than that of a surfer.
Even the ratio of time-in-the-water compared to time-riding-waves seems nuts to most people. That said, time spent waiting for waves can be fun, especially on a mat. Bouncing around...feeling more of the swell and current and surface texture under us than on any other vehicle imaginable. No wonder we enjoy every moment!
3 comments:
A warm wetsuit is my must!
When I space out in a trance watching the sunlight twinkle through the rolling kelp bed right in front of me, somehow it all starts to make sense.
The first shot is of the UK's number one female mat surfer.
Needless to say, she's a Wraith.
G
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