Jan 22, 2014

From Aaron ...



Paul,

I have been surfing for over 30 years. In those 3 decades I have made it a point to avoid publicity and crowded spots, often surfing by myself. I was successful at this strategy until last May when I received my first surf mat from you. Now everything has changed.

Now people I have seen in the water most of my life know my name and I know theirs. I find myself indulging in the social aspect of surfing rather than relocating to an uncrowded beach.  I look forward to riding waves with my friends rather than yelling at them to pull out. Even when there are 500 people crammed in the lineup, being on the mat makes it easy for the familiar faces to distinguish me in the fray and we exchange smiles amongst the hundreds of poker faces.

Since the media hype has totally destroyed the soulful aspect of surfing in the Santa Barbara channel, the mat has brought a new perspective to me that has restored the long lost stoke. The crowds grow exponentially every year, but now my list of friends in the lineup grows exponentially with it. This has been an unintended side effect of mat surfing, and I am all the better because of it.

I now look forward to the next 30 years in the water, all because of a little bag of air. I consider myself lucky to have a wave over my head and fins on my feet.

Keep the canvas side up,
Aaron

7 comments:

Anonymous said...

Absolutely awesome Aaron!

harmless neighborhood eccentric said...

Excellent!

Peter said...

My sentiments exactly! Well said.

GRAYMAN said...

Vacuum packed soul.

If everyone rode mats we wouldn't have these problems.

Or would we?

Is the problem the type of craft or the idiots who ride them?

G

Bagjuan said...

Huh? My choice of craft is a sign, merely pointing at the moon,not the moon itself.

Matt said...

Aaron rules it, godfather of matting

Henry Hester said...

I feel the same. Cheers Aaron!