Aug 25, 2014

From Da Eric ...

Hi Paul
Everyone has a “novelty” wave in their area. It probably only break once or twice a year on a massive swell with just the right mixture of conditions.
We have one here that we call 2 steps, as that is how many steps you take to get from the shore to the take off spot. Situated deep inside “a” Bay, it is ridiculously shallow and fast.
According to the locals it has not been surfed by a “matman” in a long time. It is mostly ridden by “boogers” or surfers who have OLD dinged boards for just this spot. I ended up with a shredded wetsuit shoulder and cuts. Even scraped my 4GF standard “again.”
BUT hey I had to have a go as it might be a long time until it breaks again.
Eric Dabolt


tuskedbeast said...

Pic 2 is really abstract- looks like an inky calligraphic symbol getting covered up.

daniel said...

awesome looks like its reallyfun