Hi Gloria and Paul,
Howzit?
My passport ran out of pages so I took it as a sign to visit the US.
Three months now growing lettuce on a small farm in Hawaii. Riding the
free bus
to the beach with 4GF Mini, pod3 flippers and bare feet. Having way more
fun
matting than ever! The Mini has turned out to be the one. Plus pod3s
are comfortable fun flippers (tie your ankle tethers close to the
heel straps). Having just a tiny mat, good flippers and new trunks
(thanks Mom) is so sweet...
Yes it's super fun, and also somewhat frustrating, being super minimalist
with wonderful experiences but limited capabilities. I've got the least
stuff and money of anyone I know, and tend to fall into a variety of
situations that could not happen any other way.
Am in a very poor part of the state,
the most "underprivileged", which is full of nice talented people and
warm aloha. Getting slim again due to being broke and workstaying at a
place with not much to eat in winter season. Really enjoying hitchhiking
and riding the local bus. Surf has been giant with one or two mattable
days between back-to-back 30'+ swells. The Mini Max is super fun in
Hawaiian waves and handles some fairly intimidating stuff. This is a
good place to chill out while the next opportunity marinates.
Hoping all is well.
Mahalo and Aloha
Mat Max
4 comments:
Always brilliant to hear from you MM!
Hey Mat!
I am sure this is you, I recognize your beach hut on Kepuhi beach!
You were riding a blazing fast surfmat right in front of Paniolo Hale and the abandoned resort. Oh man did I wish I have a surfmat back then!
You may remember the two if us, aerospace engineers. You showed us your mat and made a great surfmat marketing speech. I am about to buy one now, hesitating between a Standard and an Omni. Which one were you surfing on?
You also spoke about many things, aliens and your sighting of UFO included!
Best regards! and Enjoy your time on the Islands
A.
Molokai is the best...We have been going there for a few weeks every summer for the past 13 years. I have a couple of old boards there, but have wondered about riding a mat at Kepuhi. Noticed the pics on the 4th Gear Flyer webpage as well. Might be time to try one out. Looks so easy to travel with.
JK
Had a very constructive w you Paul! Next time I'm going to be the leader and you can follow...Claudia
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