Sep 16, 2018

From Rob

 
Paul,

I continue to Pray for all those effected by the Storm. This looks to be a very active Storm Season. Much Love and Healing Energy to all our Brothers and Sisters who are in the path.

In Jax, Florence created solid head high plus surf. I am far more Present these days and felt like a better Dance partner on these powerful waves! Chris is still working on the shots but he gave me a couple to keep me Frothin. More to come....

I’ve been Spreading a lot of Stoke though in and out of the water and more people are beginning to approach me about mat surfing!

Chris Shultz shot these last two from land. This is the first time I’ve ever straightened off on a closeout ;), I think it was the right call...my spidey sense was tingling and I auto straightened!

 

That’s definitely the biggest clean wave that I have a picture of! This day will Live in my memory Forever. I just paddled outside of everyone, sat up on my mat, and picked off the biggest waves in the sets. Surfers watched from the shoulder, but nobody ever dropped in on me. It was Magical!

I can only remember one swell that was bigger last year. It was during a Nor’easter that mixed with some Hurricane generated ground swell and from the beach you couldn’t see the outside. Chris and I caught only a couple rides that day because it just felt dangerous to be out, but they where 150+ yard screamers. It had to be 10’ that day because as I held a high line it felt like I was sliding across the top of a moving building made of windswept water. Lots of texture but that didn’t stop the mat from making vapor trails. It also felt far more dangerous getting outside that day because of wind-swell mixed in. We are so Fortunate to have these Experiences! I wouldn’t trade them for anything. 

Positive Vibes and Healing Energy my Friend! Much Love from Florida! I’m off to Chase and Spread more Stoke this morning!

Super Stoked,
Rob

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