Hi Paul!
Greetings from New Zealand! How are you? Well and happy, I hope :)
I'll write a properly plumped-up account of the surf action here when I've had a few more sessions.
First one was pretty epic though... until the weekend before I left, I hadn't surfed in maybe five weeks- stormy weather and work...and thought of your post-surgery efforts when I slipped out at OB. I could barely surf! And my session was cut short because I ate shit on a head-high wave, slapped the surface hard, and surfaced with violent vertigo, I could barely keep above water! I had to call for help (further humiliation, but this was no joke), got paddled in by a kid, thank god... I'd ruptured my goddam ear drum!
But that wasn't the epic one. First day here in NZ I was greenlighted to get back in the water was double overhead and short period. Big whitewash slamming into the lava rocks, crazy currents. I waited for over 20 minutes for a lull, and jumped in, completely UNconfident in my capabilities! And first thing I did when I started the adrenilized sprint-paddle was karate-chop the valve open!! I just stuck it back and bloobled along with a squirming uninflated baggy under me :) But it was epic, and great to be in the warm water and pumping surf. All things considered (age and infirmity!) I had a blast on the Lotus, and look forward to the high-performance difference of that mat in these wonderful waves.
Things here are perfect- the little "batch" I'm living in is magical. I have internet at home so doing my online courses is 1,000 times easier than I'd anticipated. I'm working in the little town bookstore, volunteering in the library and gardening around my new home. It's so peaceful... I'm going to savor every second :)
Didn't mean to write so much! Really hope things are good with you. Best wishes to you and Gloria :)
Greetings from New Zealand! How are you? Well and happy, I hope :)
I'll write a properly plumped-up account of the surf action here when I've had a few more sessions.
First one was pretty epic though... until the weekend before I left, I hadn't surfed in maybe five weeks- stormy weather and work...and thought of your post-surgery efforts when I slipped out at OB. I could barely surf! And my session was cut short because I ate shit on a head-high wave, slapped the surface hard, and surfaced with violent vertigo, I could barely keep above water! I had to call for help (further humiliation, but this was no joke), got paddled in by a kid, thank god... I'd ruptured my goddam ear drum!
But that wasn't the epic one. First day here in NZ I was greenlighted to get back in the water was double overhead and short period. Big whitewash slamming into the lava rocks, crazy currents. I waited for over 20 minutes for a lull, and jumped in, completely UNconfident in my capabilities! And first thing I did when I started the adrenilized sprint-paddle was karate-chop the valve open!! I just stuck it back and bloobled along with a squirming uninflated baggy under me :) But it was epic, and great to be in the warm water and pumping surf. All things considered (age and infirmity!) I had a blast on the Lotus, and look forward to the high-performance difference of that mat in these wonderful waves.
Things here are perfect- the little "batch" I'm living in is magical. I have internet at home so doing my online courses is 1,000 times easier than I'd anticipated. I'm working in the little town bookstore, volunteering in the library and gardening around my new home. It's so peaceful... I'm going to savor every second :)
Didn't mean to write so much! Really hope things are good with you. Best wishes to you and Gloria :)
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