Mar 5, 2016

Cross Training!

 PranaGlider riding an Omni in overhead Newport

 Greenough riding a narrow Lotus in small slop at the East Cape


One of the cool things you can do with a quiver of mats (meaning, 2 or more models in your arsenal) is to ride the 'wrong' model in certain conditions. It's challenging, fun, and very educational.

A mat that is wider-than-ideal for larger waves sharpens your skill at setting the rail on bottom turns and while trimming through thick sections. The mats' tenancy will be to slide out, and it's up to you to find the right moment to push the rail into the water and grab onto whatever surface tension you can find. You'll blow a lot of waves, but you'll also snag a few that will open your horizons.

A mat that's too narrow for smaller waves forces you to always be in the power of the wave you're riding. You can't overrun the section ahead of you, or cut back too far into the whitewater. In both cases, you'll run out of the juice you need to keep your craft planing. Your wave judgement will improve immeasurably.

Another aspect of quiver flexibility is the option to practice riding backside (if indeed you have a backside while riding a mat) with a wider mat to sharpen your trimming skills.

After a session or two with the "wrong" mat, when you go back to the appropriate model, it seems like a walk in the park...and you'll have a deeper understanding of mat surfing that will last a lifetime.

Like George says, "You always keep learning stuff with a mat!"

Mar 3, 2016

From Darth ...


Hi Paul

Recently went to the movies & saw the New Star Wars episode...SO good.
Took Paul's Darth Vader mask out to try & intimidate the other surfers.

Regards Eric

Mar 1, 2016

Australian Beach Pattern (1940)


Last week we received a cryptic email with the image of a painting entitled 'Australian Beach Pattern.'

The emailer didn't identify him or herself, and I didn't know what exactly to make of the work...other than there was a boy on a surf mat which made it relevant to our pages here at Surfmatters.

Over the next few days I looked at the painting several times, and it grew more and more powerful. Not being an art aficionado, I asked the emailer for some background information, and learned it was created by Charles Meere in 1940.

After further research, I discovered that Charles Meere was a British ex-pat artist of some note, and the image was thought to project a number of messages. Among them, a celebration of beach culture, a glorification of heroic racial purity, or a reflection of Australia's unpreparedness for the war.

Pretty heady stuff for a painting of a kid on a surf mat!

But seriously, detailed notes on Meere can be found here.

Another twist on this tale relates to another artist named Freda Robertshaw. She was Meere's student and partner, and created a feminized counter-point image to Australian Beach Pattern, called Australian Beach Scene (1940).


How long before we stumble across a Mark Twain essay on mat surfing?

Feb 24, 2016

From Witzig/Greenough/Electric Sunshine ...


This is an interesting shot from the early 70's...probably 1971. The footage is from the Witzig film "Animals," and was posted just the other day on Electric Sunshine.

Greenough is seen here riding Lennox on a "Stripes Down" Hodgman mat. The ride is in slow motion, which gives us some nice detail as to his constantly changing riding technique.

The Hodgmans from this era were long, narrow, and very thick. They had a solid, "potent" feel in larger waves, and served as the basis for the 4GF Standard model...which was developed in the mid 80's and still going strong today. Hodgmans were also ridden in Crystal Voyager (9:23, 34:49 and 36:50.)

Feb 23, 2016

From Bretto ...

Hi Paul,

This is from the Cronulla Body Board Museum...

Cheers,


Bretto

Feb 17, 2016

Awesome Mat Hack From Greg ...



Paul,

FYI at some of my local breaks in south o.c. the guards would try to not let me ride my fatty because they thought it was a raft of some sort. Until I showed them that you personally made it for me with the born on date and sig.

Thanks, Greg


Feb 15, 2016

From Aaron ...



Nice play on words!

Aaron

Feb 14, 2016

From Goomba271 ...


Hi Paul -

Seen this one?  Thought of you shaping when I saw it on Craigslist.  HAHA

John

Feb 13, 2016

From Mister Dirk ...


The palm trees along Refugio Beach are succumbing to the high tides. This one fell overnight. Campers reported that it was leaning but still rooted last night at 10:00. Surf has been really good, and combined with high tides, the coast is getting scoured away faster than ever.

These trees are nearly 100 years old, and they survived weather events like the massive swell of 1969.

I went up there before dawn this morning, and I was the 2nd person in the water. Wave conditions were excellent -- glassy, fairly big, and very consistent. After I rode 3 fun ones, I pushed deeper into the break zone, not too far off the outer rocks.

I had just pulled myself into a resting position on my surf mat to recover my breath when I got a clear view of a shark's dorsal fin about 30 feet outside of me, trolling steadily down the coast. Judging by the shape, the ragged trailing edge, and the size, I'm guessing it was a 6-9' great white. I didn't feel anything but ice cold surprise, no fear. However, without hesitation I also turned and bolted for the rocks, about 70 feet away. I looked back over my shoulder and the shark maintained the same cruising speed but swung a turn and came directly at me. Again, no fear, but I pondered a series of outcomes and responses, all bad. More sprinting and another look over my shoulder, but there was no shark to be seen. I was in the foamy break zone by then, but still in pretty deep water.

The other surfer was coming back out within earshot, so I yelled that I spotted a shark. In a few more seconds I was standing in waist deep water, and the other guy and I stood and watched for a while. No more sightings. By then surfers were piling into the water in droves, and I mentioned it to several, but nobody even paused. I went back out but then the fear set in and I was too sketched to surf properly. I kept scanning everywhere, and when underwater kelp bumped me I flinched hard. So I gave up.

A couple of hours later my friend Paul arrived, the crowds had peaked and waned, and the waves were going off. We both went out for a long productive session together -- testing two versions of a new mat design -- and I re-calibrated myself back to normal.

One thing that comes to mind, in the cool logic that follows this kind of event, was something that George G has touted for years... if you see a shark, swim towards it in a calm, deliberate manner. The message is that you aren't afraid. He's still around after over 60 years in the water, so there must be something to it...but I'm not going to be the one to try it!

Feb 9, 2016

Aloha From Molokai ...


Hi Gloria and Paul,

Howzit? My passport ran out of pages so I took it as a sign to visit the US. 
 
Three months now growing lettuce on a small farm in Hawaii. Riding the free bus to the beach with 4GF Mini, pod3 flippers and bare feet. Having way more fun matting than ever! The Mini has turned out to be the one. Plus pod3s are comfortable fun flippers (tie your ankle tethers close to the heel straps). Having just a tiny mat, good flippers and new trunks (thanks Mom) is so sweet... 
 
Yes it's super fun, and also somewhat frustrating, being super minimalist with wonderful experiences but limited capabilities. I've got the least stuff and money of anyone I know, and tend to fall into a variety of situations that could not happen any other way. 
 
Am in a very poor part of the state, the most "underprivileged", which is full of nice talented people and warm aloha. Getting slim again due to being broke and workstaying at a place with not much to eat in winter season. Really enjoying hitchhiking and riding the local bus. Surf has been giant with one or two mattable days between back-to-back 30'+ swells. The Mini Max is super fun in Hawaiian waves and handles some fairly intimidating stuff. This is a good place to chill out while the next opportunity marinates.
 
Hoping all is well.

Mahalo and Aloha

Mat Max

Feb 2, 2016

From Steiny ...

Joni Sternbach is documenting surf communities throughout the world using a process as old as photography itself. Wet plate tintypes. Like Matthew Brady's portraits of Lincoln. 

Her work can be seen here.  Surf culture photography here.

-- Steiny

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This is from Joni's site...

Joni Sternbach is a native New Yorker. She holds a BFA in Photography from the School of Visual Arts and an MA from New York University/International Center of Photography.

Sternbach uses both large format film and early photographic processes to create contemporary landscapes and portraits. Her work centers on our relationship with water, contrasting some of the most desolate deserts in the American West to iconic surf beaches around the world.
 


"Photographer Joni Sternbach gets a lot of attention when she takes her wet-plate collodion equipment, used for the intricate photo process made famous during the U.S. Civil War, to beaches around the world. Besides the large cameras, pre-mixed chemicals and jugs of water, a dark box is required to create her tintype photos. “Once you go to a small beach with a big outfit you are very noticeable,” the native New Yorker says. Sunbathers, surfers and swimmers all wonder what’s inside, often asking her whether it’s a puppet show or cappuccino maker. “The size of the camera and the immediacy of the wet-plate collodion is what really draws people into this project,” Joni says. 'That is why the process is so important to me.' "

More from Joni:

"Many years ago I bought a handmade book with an antique tintype of a woman embedded into the cover. I intended to turn the book into a photo album of my pictures or maybe even my father’s. However, as I assessed the pictures in my archive and my fathers, I found none that I deemed worthy of this book with a beautiful cover. It remains blank to this day. The tintype on the cover beguiled me with the importance and meaning of a portrait. I did not know when I discovered this book, that I would one day be making tintypes myself.

The art and craft of making wet-plate collodion, tintypes is elaborate and dirty work. The silver nitrate used to sensitize the plates can oxidize on your skin and form a dark brown stain. The process is a finicky one that necessitates patience, experience and a touch of luck to make a good plate. It requires a portable darkbox or tent to sensitize and develop your plates in while on location. Your plates are the same size as the back of your camera, so if you want large plates, you must have a large camera.
The tin is coated with collodion (a mixture of gun cotton, alcohol and ether) and poured by hand on to your plate. It’s then sensitized in a bath of silver nitrate for several minutes. Once that’s done it’s placed into the back of the camera and it’s ready for exposure. Exposure times are guesstimated, and because the process is a wet one, the speed of the medium is very slow. My exposures range from ½ second to minutes, depending on subject matter, lens and light.

The next step is development, which is done in the dark box. Once developed and rinsed, the plate is taken out of the dark box and into the daylight where it’s fixed. This is the moment of excitement and discovery. As the plate is submerged into the fixer bath it transforms right in front of your eyes. It goes from looking like a bluish negative to becoming a positive image on blackened metal…in essence, a tintype.

This dark art, the craft of collodion is like old-fashioned magic. There are potions and elixirs that stain your fingers and have a strong smell. There is a dark box with a cloth of mystery and enchantment. There is a feeling of anticipation and exhilaration as each plate emerges from the fixer. The sense of collaboration is palpable, as my subjects and I both wait for the image to clear, to see if we each held up our end and made a good picture."


Abraham Lincoln. Photo: Mathew Brady

Jonathan Steinberg. Photo: Joni Sternbach


Jan 30, 2016

From Aaron ...



"4 second mark...not much, but something!"

Aaron

Jan 28, 2016

From Eric ...

 
 
 
 

Hi Paul

We all have those great days, with sunny, offshore, pumping waves that we cherish.
BUT what about those ordinary days, where it's just a matter of "Getting Wet"?

I had one of those today. So I took my old faithfull "Vespa Roundtail" out at a local reef.
OK it was a bit onshore, but the sets had some push in them & in these conditions a "matman" can still have FUN.

Then 4 people saw me & decided I should not be allowed to have all the waves to myself...Hahahaha.

Regards Eric

Jan 23, 2016

WTF ???


"DIOR CREATES MILLIONAIRE SKATEBOARDERS' PERFECT WARDROBE"

And that's skateboarders' ... as in plural possessive, as if there are a cadre of millionaire skateboarders out there, looking for a new fashion direction.

Jan 12, 2016

The Netherlands: In The House ...

Hi Paul,

A good start of 2016!
 
Some nice winter swell in the Netherlands last week.
 
Went out on the Standard.
 

Marc

Jan 9, 2016

Tale Of Two Santas: Cruz and Barbara ...



Hi Paul —

Hello from Santa Cruz! Me and the Vespa have been getting along splendidly. Its an incredibly fun mat in small waves, but has been amazing in the bigger stuff we’ve been getting the past few weeks. Steiny and I had been out I think almost a week and a half straight on mats exclusively over the holidays (although I did give some time to a new paipo a friend made for me — a picture is below if you’re interested in taking a gander!)

I’m working on a film project with friends up here, and put together a quick little edit of Steiny getting some fun ones on his mat, hope you enjoy!

Suffice to say, I am smitten with mats — was a bit of a hull fanatic before, but they’ve taken a backseat to the prone craft. The ‘illusion of speed’ is simply great. Not many guys my age out there, so it’s also great to have guys like Steiny around who are happy impart their wisdom with the younger generation! 

Thanks again for all that you do!

Sam
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------


Hi Paul,

You can go ahead and post the new video.

Aaron had a good cut line: "A quick and dirty video about slow and dirty waves."

Best,

Dirk

---------------------------------------------------

 Paul,

About the video Dirk made of Poles yesterday. Dirk and I had been
planning to do a Poles video ever since we did the big day at Campus one
last year. Last year I rode the Lotus and was totally underpowered on
the receding mushy walls, despite the waves being triple overhead off
the top of the point. But I like a challenge so I told Dirk that I would
figure out how to ride my new Polara at poles. Our opportunity to
pull this off was yesterday and the waves were decently shaped and from
waist to shoulder high. I spent the last 3 days at grinding Sandbar and
before that riding hammering Rincon and before that charging big beach
break. Needless to say, I was already tired and not ready for the
softness of the wave at Poles.

My first ride was with the Polara at my normal air pressure (15
degree gap when folded over). I could barely catch the wave and the mat
wouldn't let loose. I let some air out and the second wave went a little
better and I managed to side slide for a short distance. I let a bunch
of air out so the mat was soft when flopped over 180 degrees and that
made all the difference. On the third wave, I did a 50 yard side slip
and had no problem getting on plane. After that, I rode a variety of
waves and found that the lined-up inside ones were better that then
shouldery set waves. About half way through the video I rode a wave on
my back (the wave where I never get out of the soup).

What you can't see in the video is all the stoke from the other surfers
both in the water and on the beach. They were excited to see a surf mat
having a good time out there. A few people mentioned they would like to
give a mat a try. Some of the old timers reminisced about learning to
ride waves on mats during their childhood and indicated a desire to ride
a mat again. Compared to the hype and intensity of the crowd at Sandbar,
this was a much more enjoyable atmosphere to surf in!

I promised Dirk that we will make another Poles video in the future and
I will ride the UDT. The UDT is ultimate weapon for waves like this.

Aaron

Jan 5, 2016

From Lloyd ...



Hello Paul

I finally got some kind of footage of the matt - had the gopro strapped to my wrist  - when I get some better shots I will let you know 

Best wishes for 2016 

Cheers Lloyd

Jan 3, 2016

From Matt ...




Matt D forwarded this classic clip from Pacific Vibrations. There's some smoking hot mat riding going off at 1:55.  It's amazing how many mat riders can fit in a small space and still have fun!

"Cheers...  Happy new year... just had my first session of 2016...good wave count... yeah things are finally improving for us... hope you're well.

Matt D "