Jul 3, 2013

From Tom...


Hi Paul,

haven't written in a while - work/jetlag and 'life' (I' m finally divorced - and married again! Among other things) so with my 2nd caipirinha in hand at my locals-only dive/pub with a priceless ocean view in Boiçucanga...

I've been matting quite a bit - splitting the local winter swells between Santa Cruz / Ocean Beach and Camburi.

Today one guy who was watching me, obviously realized the speed of my 'What is that - a big pillow?!' and that 'It must be good for getting barrelled!'. (Must have been letting the mat 'do it's thing'.)

I'm some spreading smiles-and-stoke here - despite the fact that it just IS NOT HARD - which does not go well in a macho-society and elicits confused looks from the younger folks. The lifeguards know me by now and two weeks ago a car pulled over to honestly 'congratulate' me for the fact that I had solely 'surfed' heavy wind blown storm sh*t the day before.

The Tracker works nicely, but I'm often tweaking the suspension. 90degs works mostly, but in chopped up stuff I'm going softer and in smoother faster waves where I want an 'edge', harder keeps me from drifting too much. Working the inflation pressure via the death-grip has me thinking too much and screws up 'the flow'. Maybe I should mat more.


I hope you and Gloria are well, business is doing well - you're getting some water-time - and that we can hopefully have a wet-mat session next winter ( I know how hard that will be!).


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