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My all time favorite surfing quote:"The best surfer out there is the one having the most fun."Phil Edwards
I've been a mediocre surfer/matter for all of my life. What a blessing! It means that I feel like I'm always improving. Stop worrying how you look to others and go for the feeling it gives you. I've watched hot kids become surf stars to the point of being invited to the Duke contest at Sunset Beach. Five to ten years later, they're not surfing. I asked one why. "Well... I've already done it all, haven't I? So I quit." Being "kinda OK" at surfing has kept me going to the beach, often with the stoke of a 14 year-old for almost 60 years. My wife, who rock climbed and really enjoyed it though she is 4 ft. 10 inches and often couldn't reach the next hold, summed it up. "You don't have to be good at it to love it!"
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