The Tusked Beast, known to the non-matting world as Jonathan Hess, is ''multi-verse renaissance-person'' of many talents...from professional dog walking to library science to talented wave rider. Jonathan has generously offered to cull through the past 14 years of Surfmatters and select his favorite postings...and add his personal thoughts.
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Hello again Surfmatters mat surfers!
This time we have for you a
nuanced little memo posted by PG in January of 2012. I think all surfers
feel and appreciate the “extramural” pleasures of surfing, beyond
actually riding a wave- of floating in the sea, of the quality of light
at different times of the day... the oily feel of kelp, of sand on your
toes... the feeling of pure animal joy, entering the water after a long
dry spell wrapped up in day-to day-hassles.... I hope we all do, because that's so much of the positivity we share, what binds us together, and soothes our souls.
Dirk and I were talking on the phone the other night, and he was commenting on how many hours we spend anticipating surf days, preparing our equipment, traveling to spots, etc, relative to how many minutes -- or even seconds -- we actually spend ride waves. The ratio is insane by any measure...other than that of a surfer.
Even the ratio of time-in-the-water compared to time-riding-waves seems nuts to most people. That said, time spent waiting for waves can be fun, especially on a mat. Bouncing around...feeling more of the swell and current and surface texture under us than on any other vehicle imaginable. No wonder we enjoy every moment!
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