"The shot with the astronauts is fun. Most are NOT Team guys. You can
tell by their swimsuits. UDT swim trunks are all we ever wore. The guy
in the front row on the left definitely IS. He’s wearing UDT swim
trunks with web belt and K-Bar knife. We always wore our watches on our
right wrist, because we didn’t want the snare to catch our watch during
cast and recovery ops. On his left wrist he’s wearing a compass and
depth gauge. He recently got out of the water since his trunks are
still wet. I don’t know his name, but it’s likely he’s East Coast, UDT
22.
The dark haired guy on the far left in the wetsuit top is
Corney Leyden. He was a master chief in UDT 22 when I was there from
‘67-71. He was our diving Department chief and knew tons about all
three of our diving rigs and kept us all current. Corney is wearing
issue booties that we’re a MUST with Duck Feet, because the fins would
tear up your feet without them."
Riding a 4thGearFlyer in overhead waves. This was my first session riding the Lotus model. The handmade surf mat by Paul Gross is narrower & has less volume so the idea is you'd want to ride it in bigger surf or smaller waves with power. This particular day in Hawaii had some size, but also had a little wind which created some bump. The Lotus felt more responsive and easier to turn. Glad to have this model in the quiver.
https://www.instagram.com/hulasurf.tv/
Lou G. put me on to a really good website, "The Surf Film Archives." It's free to join, and there's a treasure trove of old surf films that haven't been seen for decades.
Here are some frame grabs of George G ripping on a Converse Hodgman mat in the early 70's...
Thanks Lou!
Hey Paul,
Hello Paul-
Here is a pic of me
riding my other one at typhoon lagoon at Disney a few years ago. The mat
was made for that place.
John
Paul,
I joined a Facebook group “Surfers 70 and over”, and the vibe is, understandably, “decline”!
Can’t pop up, so 10’ longboards and SUPs are the answers. Well, obviously I don’t feel that way, so as a public service I’ve been, from time to time, proposing the surf mat as an alternative. Maybe you will see an uptick in your website traffic, because this post finally got some reactions.
I don’t want to oversell the mat, and I talk about the learning curve. Really, I’m just so grateful for my late in life years of surfing on your mats (the best years, too) that I feel that I have to say something to these people!
TT
The wave might be small but the stoke is large and you can surf this standing wave on your mat literally endlessly near Denver, ColoRADo.
DR
The universe is strange..Mara and I went out at a pretty schetchy coral reef claws break this morning.. Said a couple words to Mouse paddling out..I took my mat out for it's maiden voyage in Hawaii. Couple local guys noticed my "floatation device" after I caught a couple off the side ones. told them I was trying to catch a good one for my friend Mouse. Told them his story. I had to wait a pretty long time to get a good one but I was gonna do it. I said come on Mouse send me one...A frikkin bomb starts heading my way. I was outside of everyone turned and went.. Nothing but hoots from the guys inside...Best wave of the whole trip... Good thing about being old is sometimes it just takes one good one!
Aloha Mouse...THANKS Paul for all the stoke that riding a mat adds to the surfing experience.
ACE
.
Quick birthday trip for my wife out to New Smyrna Beach, Fla for a few days this past weekend from our home near Denver, ColoRADo….
Brought my Fatty 4thGF, first time trying it in the ocean; I have surfed The Fatty a bunch but only on stationary river waves.... It was a blast being that tourist kook in the Florida surf sporting pasty white skin, a hat, fins (booties duct taped on since my Yucca fins are size XXL my for cold water booties), and a ton of sunblock....
Photos are of me the next to last day of the trip taken by my wife…. The last day of the trip, I was mat surfing the outside sandbar in better conditions mixing it up in the lineup with the locals by the NSB inlet and getting my fair share of rides on the 4thGF half-inflated bag... So incredibly fun to actually to get The Fatty surfmat into ocean waves!!!…. PS, I hear that another one of my river surfing buddies just ordered a Fourth Gear Flyer (The Fatty) to river surf with as well….
DR
Hi Paul