Dec 24, 2022

Surfmatters Retrospective #4 From The Tusked Beast

The Tusked Beast, known to the non-matting world as Jonathan Hess, is ''multi-verse renaissance-person'' of many talents...from professional dog walking to library science to talented wave rider.  Jonathan has generously offered to cull through the past 14 years of Surfmatters and select his favorite postings...and add his personal thoughts.

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 Happy Hollowdays, Mat Marauders!

This gorgeous candy-colored sequential confection of matting perfection was published January 10th, 2010. Whoever it is has never piped in to “claim” it, which makes it that much sweeter... and that much more "mat", if you know what I mean.

Here’s to happier days for all of us in the water and out of it in 2023!

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Our own Mystery Mat Rider greeting the new year!

Dec 14, 2022

From Jack Coleman

 

The narration for this short is mostly from a video I shot of George in his backyard in 1985.  PG

Dec 8, 2022

Link From Steve

 

 

Gerry Wedd: The Opening WAVE

Stu Nettle picture
Stu Nettle (stunet)
Talking Heads

Gerry Wedd is a six-time state champion of South Australia. Won 'em all on the trot, though that was a while ago now. He's since been a gun for hire at Mambo, back when they were a more daring enterprise, collaborated in all manner of surf art, but is never more at peace than when he's sitting in his studio knuckles deep in supple clay.

Gerry's become "the village potter" at Port Elliot, surfing whenever his timetable or aching body allows. He's also just finished working on a film project, which is somewhat novel for a ceramicist. The film is called WAVE and has been described as "genre-defying", which can itself be defined as any artwork that's difficult to describe, even by the people who created it. But Gerry, despite being in the throes of illness, gives it a red hot go.

 

Swellnet: G’Day Gerry. How’ve you been?
Gerry Wedd: I wish I could say good, but I'm fucked.

What's going on?
I’ve just had an endless litany of weird injuries and then COVID got me and then I got injured again and now I’ve got a cold that is fucking nuts.

There's something to be said for getting it all over at once; just combining your ailments into one short time frame.
Oh yeah…

So for the next two years you'll be sitting pretty…hopefully.
Let's hope so.

Your new work is the first thing people see when they visit the Art Gallery of South Australia. I know very little about it, so can you describe it to me?
Last year a guy that I used to see in the surf all the time approached me. He's a film producer, he’s done all sorts of work, including working with [Indigenous musician] William Barton. They'd just done a VR project and he said, ‘You know, you do those drawings on your pots, you tell stories, do you want to be involved in developing something?’

I foolishly said yes and then began developing something that has not a lot to do with surfing.

 So what is it?
It’s essentially your classic ecological nightmare. It's a story, eleven minutes long, shown on a surround screen. The story starts with the ancient world, and then it moves quite quickly through an area based upon where I grew up, a little coastal area, and then very quickly goes from [white European] arrival to development to fire and catastrophe. The closing part of it is just this hilarious kind of cartoon wave that looks more like some kind of weird rendered chop.

Is it a morality tale..?
You could look at it that way. It started out being much more didactic and having a lot of people in it, however it just got to the point where, I guess, the viewer is nature. It's nature kind of standing back, watching the environment and things happening very quickly.

A weird thing was the story…the way it changed and unfolded once we started working together.

Yeah, I want to ask you about that because you usually work with ceramics - static, not moving - yet this is something else entirely. How did you adapt to that?
I had to do a lot of drawings. Basically, I kept redrawing the cartoon of this very basic idea, but then trying to imagine it at the VR stage, so that you would be wearing a headset and you would be in the forest and things.

I found it really hard, particularly through the middle of the project because we were doing all these things. I'm the artist, so I was supplying them with all the images and then they would just send me back these short clips of how I imagine it might work, which was challenging, but I got the chance to do some very, very rough kind of animations and stuff, which I'd never done before. I really loved that part of it.

Are you the sort of person who likes to be taken out of your comfort zone?
No, no. I'm a two foot feet beachbreak kind of guy, in every way. But the way people see me, I'm operating out of their comfort zone. But no, actually I'm not risk averse, but this was certainly different to the way I usually work. All of a sudden I was dealing with a team and each of those people are visual artists in some way. That was the good thing about it because normally I'm in complete control of just about every aspect.

Of course.
But it's funny, because years ago when I did work with Mambo, I quickly adapted to my work being completely changed.

You're OK with that...?
Yeah. The art department would say, ‘Yeah, this is fine, but we got to do this and we got to do that.’

The great thing was that, say for example when there's this kind of tsunami thing at the end [of the WAVE film]. I didn't do that. The guy who is the VR expert, we described to him how waves break, so he built this ocean and then built all the wave movements. We tried to get the wave to be somewhere between a film and a cartoon and a wood block print and all those things.

Yeah. When I look at the wave on the screen it's disorienting.
Well you picked it, because water in one part of the wave is moving the wrong direction, so the water's running down the face instead of pulling up from the trough. Both of us, the producer and I, we're both surfers and we thought it's weird, but it's also kind of great. For us, it's suggesting something that's a lot more out of control than what you're used to.

Okay. And now people can see this when they go in through the foyer of the art gallery?
Yeah, it's in the front room. I know lots of surfers have already been and some of them just for a selfie. You've got this kind of giant Hokusai wave behind you.

So they don't have to put on VR headgear?
No. This is called a 360 degree screen.

You are in the middle of the action, so that 180 degrees that you're looking at if you're facing forward, as that's changing, so is everything behind you.

It's never going to translate well to a flat monitor.
Not to a monitor. I found out a couple days ago, it's going to do an East Coast tour*. It'll be on a different kind of screen, which is like, I don't know what circumference or whatever, but it's quite a big screen.

What about real waves? Getting any..?
No, I've been. Fuck, pinched nerves, all kinds of shit. For years I've done rehab on a mat and now, at the moment that's 90% of what I do.

Sorry, when you say mat, do you mean a yoga mat..?
No...ha ha.

Oh, blow up mat. George Greenough.
Yeah, a Fifth Gear Flyer.

OK gotcha. So you're sort of using that more as a necessity to keep you in the water?
Yeah. It's really funny because friends say, ‘Why didn't you get a boogie board? You could do this and this and this’, but they haven't tried them out. There's a peculiar kind of glide that you get on a mat. Only every now and then. I haven't totally worked it out yet.

Do you ever take it out to Knights?
No, ha, then I really would have back injuries. I did that three summers ago and I got flipped three waves in a row. I didn't have the paddle power to kind of knife into it.

I tell you, one really good thing about the mat is it makes shit surf really good.

Because you're down lower to the water surface. Is that it?
A part of it. Also, part of it is your ego goes out the window, and so you're not looking for a wave with a wall to do whatever on, if you know what I mean. It's much more immediate when you take off, you're just dealing with what's right there.

Even if it’s not perfectly shaped?
Yeah.

Talking about ego. I do a lot of bodysurfing and that can be humbling because you’re not even considered part of the pecking order.
Yeah, yeah.

But I find a freedom in that; just do whatever you want. Catch any sort of wave, even closeouts
Yeah. The really funny thing is, in the shitty waves I surf down here, I still have very good knowledge of reading the surf. Even when I go out on the mat and it's quite crowded, I'm still getting most of the best waves.

Nice.
It's weird, and I call people onto the waves!

"Please, please, take my waves."
And I thought, fuck, when I was younger, everyone wanted to drop in on me.

Yeah.
Maybe they feel sorry for me.

Perhaps. But you've earned your spot up at the top of the totem pole. On your blow up mat.
On my mat.

 

 

Dec 5, 2022

From Charlie and Henry

 


Paul...wow! Henry and I got in a few hours with our new mats yesterday, and we had SO MUCH FUN. A night-and-day difference from the canvas Redback we had been riding, though it's clear that he and I both have a LOT to learn. We do have the bug, though. After his first wave, Henry said, "Pop, that is one of the greatest moments of my life." (Granted, he's eight, but still.)

I have attached some photo evidence of our first outing, though you will see that my action-shot-photography leaves even more to be desired than my mat surfing. The little black blob is Henry :) 

Thank you again for making it all possible, and we will look forward to keeping in touch!
 
Charlie M

Dec 4, 2022

From Soulofgpl

 

                                                                     Photo: Sean Manning

  Michael Davidson flying on a Lotus model!

Nov 30, 2022

Surfmatters Retrospective #3 From The Tusked Beast

 

The Tusked Beast, known to the non-matting world as Jonathan Hess, is ''multi-verse renaissance-person'' of many talents...from professional dog walking to library science to talented wave rider.  Jonathan has generously offered to cull through the past 14 years of Surfmatters and select his favorite postings...and add his personal thoughts.

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Hi Surfmatters readers! This time we’re going to revisit two posts from PG he shared during the holidays in 2011/12, which themselves revisited his and Greenough’s filming for Big Wednesday in El Salvador in 1977 (pretty “meta”, huh?).

There’s a lot to appreciate here. The centerpiece is a joyous, dynamic eleven seconds of Paul surfing shot by George which speaks for itself. It’s extra groovy because Paul hadn’t seen it since it was shot; imagine how it must have felt to see it again for him. For sure it inspired a vivid recounting- enjoy!

(From my perspective: as well as the choice footage, it makes me appreciate the various hustles our mat maker had in his checkered career, the cast of characters in his life story, and (he’s going to hate this) the specialness of being able to get his handmade mats directly from him. Nowadays you have a few choices of where to get a mat… but none of them got a side slip panning shot while grinning like a fool, shot by Greenough in 1977.)
 
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I've had this short clip of 35mm Panavision movie film tucked away in a storage bin for the past 34 years, and finally got around to having it transferred to digital. (Well, actually, it was Mr. Dirk who put out all the effort with regard to the transfer!)

Some back story on the shot...

When GG and I were working on Big Wednesday in the Spring of 1977, we needed to do some test shots with the backpack camera that George built for the project. We didn't have time to shake down the rig before leaving for El Salvador, so when we got down there, a bunch of the actors and their surfing-doubles went out at Zunzal to ride waves alongside George...while he tried various focal lengths, aperture settings, FPS speeds, and camera angles. The camera wasn't designed as a point-of-view unit, but more for tracking shots as someone rode the wave ahead of him. (This was new for George, as most of what he had previously shot off his back was POV.)

I had been jockeying the camera rig back and forth to the beach most of that day, and I was pretty tired. The air, water and humidity were all "85." At one point, a wave came along and George shouted "Double!" which was 70s-era mat surfing shorthand for inviting another matter to catch the same wave. We got that one wave together, and then George went back to shooting the serious test footage.

The material shot that day was flown back to Hollywood. (I love saying "Hollywood" like I was a part of the film industry!) After processing, it found its way back to our encampment a few miles north of La Libertad. We watched the footage one evening, and I had completely forgotten about the shot George had taken of me until it popped up on the screen. Culturally speaking, this was near the bottom of the mat riding bell curve, so none of the many surfers in attendance took notice of it...other than Greg MacGillivray, who thought it was neat because I was laughing. (In truth, who doesn't laugh when you ride a wave on a mat with someone else???)

The next day, George snipped the mat riding shot out of the reel of test footage with a pair of scissors, and gave it to me for safe keeping. I brought it home a few months later when we wrapped, and hadn't seen it projected until a few days ago, when Dirk forwarded the digitized version it to me.

I have to say, the first thing that jumped out when I looked at it was my abundance of hair and the lack of body fat! Beyond that, the lively performance of the old Hodgman is what's really neat. I do remember that the surf down there was well suited to those mats...having a strong shoreward push without a lot of curling power. So, the relatively crude shape of the mat was in its ideal element. The current generation of mats would go even better, by a long shot, but it was a lot of fun to ride the last-of-the-Hodgmans in warm water and fun surf conditions. And I think the film clip really conveys that.

The first few frames of the clip are of me sitting with Greg MacGillivray and Lance Carson. They were taken earlier the same day, as I recall.

This is George at Zunzal during the Big Wednesday shoot, riding a pretty big wave with the same backpack camera rig. I shot these photos with a 400mm lens from a lifeguard tower near the water's edge, so that will give you an idea of how far out in the ocean he was.



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Along with George Greenough and Bud Browne, Dan "Man Mountain" Merkel did the water photography for Big Wednesday.


Bud Browne with clapperboards and his surf mat.


George Greenough with a water housed Arriflex. When he was caught inside at Sunset -- which happened often -- he would let the camera go and hang onto his mat. He reasoned that it was easier to ride the mat into the shorebreak and retrieve the camera than it was to swim in with the camera and find his mat!



Dan Merkel shooting up at Conception. This is the same mat and camera rig he's duck diving in the shot below...I built the housing while we were in El Savador.



All three water photographers utilized surf mats in their effort...but none more impressively than Dan Merkel. For all you lilly-livered wusses who moan and groan that you can't duck dive your mat in surf over 2 feet, check this out...Merkel takes down a water-housed 35mm camera and a huge, rental-sized raft at Sunset Beach!


Next time you're caught inside on your mat, keep in mind the sage words of Dee from Sunny/Philadelphia: "Sack it up, Bitches!!!"

Seriously, there's a nice interview with Dan Merkel about the changes on the North Shore from a photographer's perspective...here.

Nov 22, 2022

Three Reader Submissions

 

  Hi Paul,

If I had to pick the thing I like the most about mat riding it would probably be that the rocker fits perfectly in every wave!

Gogglefog 



Thanks for putting me on the blog. I’m loving the Lotus, it holds in and threads the tube better and doesn’t slide slip on bottom turns as much . Still getting used to it. Here’s a shot with a nice rooster tail! ( On me Standard) 

Aloha,
John L
 
 
 
Pulled from Facebook and sent from my pal Steve Heilig. I think it's Rob Belli. It has that "Where's Waldo" quality that you seem to like (as evidenced by Surfmatters!)
 
Tusked Beast


Nov 18, 2022

From Fantasy Island

 


Hi Paul !
 
Wanted to show you how fast I went on the Standard !

Aloha,
John L

Nov 16, 2022

Most Soulful Mat Failure Ever?

 

 


Hey Paul, 

I’ve been really enjoying the xl blue streak! I punctured the bottom flying through an unexpected school of fish. I felt the air bubbling up from under me. 

Thanks, 
Lucas

 

Nov 12, 2022

RIP Mike Griffin

Longtime San Diego surfer/shaper Mike Griffin passed away several weeks ago after a long battle with cancer. Several paddle outs in his honor are scheduled.





In addition to his shaping and board surfing, Mike had been a 4gf rider since 2008. 

Mike gifted one of his 4GFs to Mikey Ratt. (Shown on the right, with friend and mat ripper Scott.)

 Mikey on Mike's 4GF.
 
 
Thoughts from Mikey on Mike Griffin...
 
"I might have been his brother. Mike was a dear friend of mine, He gave me my first 4th gear, and I built him a shaping room in my shop.  I have a little record shop. I sell junk and clothes and a few surfboards, mostly used. Mike almost quit shaping, but me and my best buddy Scott built him a shaping bay in my old office. I got rid of all my shit in there and gave the space to mike .. he taught me so much about surfing-shaping & life and how to a better person.. I read him the little interview we did when he was in hospice..he lit up when I told him I finally made the zine and did a Q & A with PG…. I still have and ride the mat he gave me."




Nov 11, 2022

Tusked Beast Epilogue

 

I was thinking of the "waiting is half the fun" sentiment while walking a dog on the beach yesterday...during perfect, small, delectable OB.

The next level, past appreciating the non-wave-riding moments, is appreciating them while helplessly watching others do so!

Hope all is well!

 Jonathan

Nov 10, 2022

Surfmatters Retrospective #2 From the Tusked Beast

The Tusked Beast, known to the non-matting world as Jonathan Hess, is ''multi-verse renaissance-person'' of many talents...from professional dog walking to library science to talented wave rider.  Jonathan has generously offered to cull through the past 14 years of Surfmatters and select his favorite postings...and add his personal thoughts.

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Hello again Surfmatters mat surfers!

This time we have for you a nuanced little memo posted by PG in January of 2012. I think all surfers feel and appreciate the “extramural” pleasures of surfing, beyond actually riding a wave- of floating in the sea, of the quality of light at different times of the day...  the oily feel of kelp, of sand on your toes... the feeling of pure animal joy, entering the water after a long dry spell wrapped up in day-to day-hassles.... I hope we all do, because that's so much of the positivity we share, what binds us together, and soothes our souls.

Enjoy! And be grateful….
 
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 Waiting's Half the Fun!

Dirk and I were talking on the phone the other night, and he was commenting on how many hours we spend anticipating surf days, preparing our equipment, traveling to spots, etc, relative to how many minutes -- or even seconds -- we actually spend ride waves. The ratio is insane by any measure...other than that of a surfer.

Even the ratio of time-in-the-water compared to time-riding-waves seems nuts to most people. That said, time spent waiting for waves can be fun, especially on a mat. Bouncing around...feeling more of the swell and current and surface texture under us than on any other vehicle imaginable. No wonder we enjoy every moment!
















Nov 8, 2022

From Bryce and Regi

 

Hi Paul, 

I hope you and your family are doing well. Regi and I just got back from a Baja trip, camping and living the simple life. She is loves her mats and I’m always so impressed at her waves on them!

It’s was busy summer for me, I’ve been doing a lot of scientific diving. I was down in the Gulf of Mexico, Newfoundland. Nova Scotia, the Puget Sound, and the Channel Islands.

Thanks so much.

Bryce

Nov 6, 2022

Nov 3, 2022

Lotus Feeback

 

Hi Paul,

Sorry to be so remiss in sending feedback on the Lotus.

I’ve had only 3 sessions on the Lotus. The first was a chunky bumpy day about head high, nothing remarkable until I caught a clean wave. I turned mid face, setting the line and it JUST TOOK OFF. Instant acceleration. I was flabbergasted. Second and third sessions much better surf days, the Lotus holds a line, great off the bottom, no hesitation,  and is responsive to input. 
 
My fave big wave mat!

I picked up a barely used blue streak lotus from Rob up here. Only one session on it. Had to deflate and swim out twice. One thing I noticed with the lighter fabric, it doesn’t absorb some of the bumps, it was pretty clean day and I was surprised as I’m bouncing, flying thru the air. Other than that it was a solid mat I’ll have to do more side by side comparisons.

And lastly my most recent surf I rode my Standard. It’s still my all time favorite mat. Period.

Thanks Paul, for making a great wave riding vehicle. I tell curious people all the time about how to get mats from you. 

Much joy much love,

Mark

P.S. Maybe I have too many expectations. I was talking to a guy about mats and your and where to get them. He had questions on the kind of waves you could ride them in. I was telling him about Greenough and him filming from inside the tube, on a mat. “George Greenough who’s that”, Innermost limits of Pure Fun… "don’t know it”  I explained briefly some history.  But to the blank expression I paddled for a set wave. Shaking my head in dismay.

Oct 31, 2022

From Gogglefog

 


Hi Paul,

Hope you’re well!

I’m back in El Salvador for a month.  The photo was taken last week sometime.
It’s kind of slow for here today.  Should be a nice run of swell starting tomorrow.


Thanks, John