Outside The Box...

We try to stay within the mat riding paradigm, and manage to do so most of the time. But here are a couple of tid-bits from the animal world that somehow seem relevant...


First off is the Wikipedia page on "Pig Beach." Well worth a read!

Next is a nice vid of a baby elephant playing the ocean...





Last is a classic "pelican surfing" vid...a level of performance and freedom we should all aspire to!

From Tom...

 

 

Hi Paul,

haven't written in a while - work/jetlag and 'life' (I' m finally divorced - and married again! Among other things) so with my 2nd caipirinha in hand at my locals-only dive/pub with a priceless ocean view in Boiçucanga...

I've been matting quite a bit - splitting the local winter swells between Santa Cruz / Ocean Beach and Camburi.

Today one guy who was watching me, obviously realized the speed of my 'What is that - a big pillow?!' and that 'It must be good for getting barrelled!'. (Must have been letting the mat 'do it's thing'.)

I'm some spreading smiles-and-stoke here - despite the fact that it just IS NOT HARD - which does not go well in a macho-society and elicits confused looks from the younger folks. The lifeguards know me by now and two weeks ago a car pulled over to honestly 'congratulate' me for the fact that I had solely 'surfed' heavy wind blown storm sh*t the day before.

The Tracker works nicely, but I'm often tweaking the suspension. 90degs works mostly, but in chopped up stuff I'm going softer and in smoother faster waves where I want an 'edge', harder keeps me from drifting too much. Working the inflation pressure via the death-grip has me thinking too much and screws up 'the flow'. Maybe I should mat more.

Whatever...

I hope you and Gloria are well, business is doing well - you're getting some water-time - and that we can hopefully have a wet-mat session next winter ( I know how hard that will be!).

Cheers
Tom

From Steiny...

I am not riding my 4GF Mini. Do you know someone who might want it? I rode it 5 or 6 times. I was thinking of $125 post paid. What do you think?

Thanks sincerely

 Stein

harmless.eccentric@gmail.com
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1943 ...

From Robert...via the My Paipo site...

Love the riderless mats at :42 !!!

From Matt ...

 

 

Hi!

 

A couple of months ago, I had a dream I was on my surf mat that my brother gave me as a birthday gift last year. In the dream, I only caught one wave, but it shaped up to be an awesome 4-5 foot LEFT! There were people all around in the water, but I cruised by them—no problem. I felt perfectly in control. So I lifted my chest forward & threw my arms back in the air. It was about as close to flying as I could have been!!!

 

The dream stuck in my head for a while and I even doodled it right after the dream. I just made this block print of it and am pretty pumped on it. I was making some prints & frames from some old wood I had, so I figured I’d share the stoke that the surf Mat has given me in dreams and in reality.

 

Thanks!

 

Matt

 

From Kaz ...

From David ...

Costa Rica surf trip  .. had great time riding mats in 4-8' with real long rides with lots of face time at this reef / point break.  We only encountered one other surfer in the water the entire trip. Rendezvoused there with Paipo and Alaia riders I know from http://mypaipoboards.org/.

Mostly rode the Omni which is noticeably faster then older mats  and I made leaps and bound progress in my ability to go where I wanted on the wave.  All of the sudden things really clicked.  I rode with a complete fold in the mat.  That slither to the front thing is one key element.    I could take off on anything and find my way to a pleasant ride, glide through slow spots and position for face time.  I would let the wave throw me, hang on, then get in control.    I could even stall with some slide slip and then cut in when ready.  Real fun!  

 

I missed my queue to try the Standard on the biggest day so can not compare it to the Omni .. I was thinking the Standard might be the right ride for OH+.  Next time.

 

I made some progress in getting out through some dumpers. Seems I did a perfect 720 cartwheel.  I found that as I duck dived I could flip to my back and hold the mat up so it would catch less force.  I put the death grip on the front edge of the mat with both hands.   I also let the air out the mat when I got caught inside a couple times and then filled up when out again.  Of course I went lateral to deeper water when I could vs hitting head on but I was a bit slow to get that wisdom.  Otherwise, you could get pushed back 100+ yards into lava rock in a second.  I did take a break one session and rode a paipo which dives much much easier but then returned to mat and made real progress.  At one point I thought I might have to use paipo boards when it got bigger as a go-to ride but then came back to just thinking its more skill that is required.  

 

In short, I had a great, fun time, made progress in my skill and got to hang with some really great guys. 

 

Life is good,

 

David

From Steiny...

(Photos: Dave Brown)

Hi Paul,

We took a big group of autistic kids surfing this morning. Some real runners and wrigglers. They all calmed down in the water and we got some nice sleeper south swell pulses.

I hope to go for a father's day surf.

All my best to you-

Steiny

From Henry...

 

Heads Up To A Greenough Link...hashtag, #wecantgetenoughgreenogharoundheresodealwithitarsehole

Special thanks to Nate K for the link to a nice historical piece on the Greenough family of Montecito, California.

The article is here...

Nate spotted the link on My Paipos Forum...

Also, I came across this page a while back. It's an article about the yacht owned by the Greenough's during George's childhood, the Marmetta. "Marmetta" is the name of the surf spot out at the Santa Barbara Channel Islands, which is often (wrongly) called "Mar Meadow." Obviously, the spot got it's name because George spent so much time anchored there in that vessel.

From Blake...

 

Paul,

Here are some photos from last week's surf trip, which coincided nicely with some quite surfable surf.  After battling the crowds at well known spots for 2 days, we shifted gears and sought more sheltered breaks and hunted for those mythical breaks that only awaken during these mega swells.

This empty right (which was not a set wave!) was a few miles away from where our photos were taken during mat session #2.

The new Fatty is a great addition to the mat quiver and made a convert of my brother (in hood), who stopped resisting my mat proselytizing after this exact left.  The rough sequence of me (in hat) going left was the longest ride that session; it ended when I washed up onto sand.

Just wanted to send you these as a way to say thanks for the new mat and, as always, the top notch customer service.

Best,

Blake

To Answer Your Questions....

(Photo: Michelle)

Yes...that's a mat rider lacerating the wall.

Yes...it's GG.

Yes...he's riding a 4GF.

Yes...it's a new model.

Yes...details are coming soon!

Steve's Divorce !!!

 

Hi Paul

Recent comments re: Captain David and Bretto inspired me to contribute.

The divorce is now finalised. Madamme Thruster and I have officially parted ways. Few tears were shed. Our shared assets, consisting of 4 high performance thrusters have been liquidated on Ebay (seen in the photo above, mostly unridden since purchasing my first mat a year ago). As you predicted, this resulted in net loose change even with the purchase of a mat quiver. This must be one of the few occasions where divorce has been profitable.

Madamme Thruster and I just weren't suited to each other. She demanded perfect waves to make her happy, and she didn't enjoy my less than perfect local breaks. Well occasionally she did, but the breaks in between were long and unsatisfying for us both. She needed a man with deep pockets to fly her to remote and exotic locations, to keep her really happy.

Madam Mat has been a much more compatible partner. She's always happy to hang out at my local breaks. She's always happy to mould herself to make the most of the current circumstances, rather than demanding the circumstances change to match her wants, as per Madamme Thruster.  The future looks bright.

 

Steve

From Captain David...

G'day  Paul,

I wanted to thank you for my first true love the Tracker RT! She has been the perfect traveling companion for my adventures splashing around the globe. We have caught many a fun wave at home and abroad whether it be a sloppy beach break or perfect long barreling points she has been there for me and continues to teach me every time we hit it. 

Apparently now my old RT mat is lonely and would be much happier with a new sexy "Omni" stored alongside her.  Coming from a conservative up-bringing I would never have guessed I could love 2 at the same time, but after mat sliding now going on 3 years my mind has burst wide to all possibilities.  I am open to this ménage-a-trois arrangement and hope we will all live in harmony.  If not there is always the wife to fall back on!

My weight is still fluctuating between 211-225 depending on whether out at sea (dry) or home(wet/beer)! Staying in reasonable shape although my last go out during a port call in Honolulu left my ankles and knees hurting from all the kicking I did. Nothing like using fins 3 days straight after 3 months of inactivity.

I'll put in the order on the web site. I pull back into home port (San Diego) next week, looking forward to a long summer of fun with family, friends and my mats! Happy Memorial Day Weekend!
Thanks Dave

pics...

A couple of fotos from the latest session.  We surf a boat accessible spot off the harbor when we moor at the University facility. Just my crew and I  surfing fun 1 footers!

Captain David
Master, R/V Melville

From Bretto...

Hi Paul,

Went looking for a secret spot and ran into your mate there. It was pumping.

Cheers
Bretto

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Reply from PG:

I guess Bretto isn't up to speed on the big news from Hollywood...here !

 

 

More Wit and Wisdom From Mat Max !

I ran across a collection of old Go Karting images -- including an advert for the first kart I had back in the early 60's -- and sent it on to my old karting/matting/surfing buddy, Mat Max...

 

 

Hey PG,

 

The simplicity of 60s karts is really attractive. Just google karting images for a comparison to now.

 

I recently had an old rigid bicycle with well-worn fat mtb tires in Byron (until it got stolen) and so much enjoyed the essential "bikeness" compared to my 6" travel full-suspension all-mountain rig here in NZ.

 

Of course, this is also an homage to the purity of surfing with mat and flippers. Now that a 4GF has replaced boards for a couple of years straight (plus Mini Mat when the surf is 6'+), and with nearly thirty years of modern mat experience, mat riding has actually started to feel normal rather than off center. What this points out is the strength of the binding forces of modernity.

 

Which is actually more fun? A $15,000 racing kart at a 100mph racetrack, or some 5hp retro carts and a box of beer in a big backyard? Has the mainstream pursuit of fun lost it's way? Thankfully, surfmatters are conscious counterpoints to modern seriousness and expense...

 

Yee Ha!

 

Maxi

 

Tips From The Pros ... Hyper Inflation !!!

 

(Mat Max, Hard At Work)

 

The Virtues Of Hyperinflation

 

After months of weak waves that called for low inflation matting, the surf picked up today with powerful five foot tubes. A few sideslip wipeouts prompted me to puff up my 5GF so that it was full but not quite rigid. The squishy, slippy mat was transformed to a form more akin to a rigid bodyboard. Tracking across steep walls and through pitching sections became much easier.

 

There's a comfortable inflation that allows my abdomen to settle slightly between the fully inflated outer pontoons for a locked-in feeling. This is my starting point for high volume settings. I reckon that the amount of bend is about fifteen degrees. Then I fine tune from there depending on how much traction on the waves is needed. After a few adjustments I find an air volume that suits the conditions and then enjoy greater control.

 

I often forget to pump up the volume because of being fixated on glide. One factor is that the inflation zone between ninety degrees bend and twenty degrees bend is pretty much useless for my purposes. So, I often put off pumping up, and suffer needless lack of handling. Then I'll inflate to nearly full volume and rediscover that in powerful waves the drag is not all that severe, good speed is still attainable, and negotiating gnarly surf becomes much more fun.

 

The moral of this story is that utilizing high inflation is a great opportunity to transform your personal hovercraft into a more board-like perch for negotiating steeps and deeps.

 

Cheers M8s!

 

Max

From The T-Dog...

 

 

 

Hey PG,

Matt Pierce, JJ and I scored an epic Midnight Malibu session last night! 3-5ft, with occasional 6ft  sets. Big, bright moon and clear skies. The waves started out kinda chunky, but grew faster as the tide pulled out, and all three of us were streaking on our 4GFs! Matt on his Omni, JJ on his Tracker RT, and me on the Greeno-Spec UDT. Matt and I played bumper cars on one set wave, blasting down the line and bouncing off each other, hooting the whole way (like GG and Michael Cundith in Crystal Voyager)!

Sadly, not enough light to document anything last night...but I've attached a few pics from my recent GoPro outings. I'm putting together a top-secret movie starring Mary. Shhhh... Don't tell her.

Also, I saw this, but sadly, I can't afford it at the moment:

http://ventura.craigslist.org/spo/3735167734.html

Hope all is well with you!

 

Cheers,

Tremor

More From Bretto !!!

Hi Paul,

Michelle got some shots the other day when George was riding one of the new 4GF Prototype when it was big and clean! Ive asked George if I could send them to you straight away but he wants to have a look at them first to make sure the mats working properly ..... he'll get them today or tomorrow.

I have include some footage Wardy shot last summer, its in slow motion on the 5gf at an unknown location, I hope you like it.

Cheers
Bretto

Movie of Michelle Last Summer....

Hi Paul,

Here is a short clip of Michelle last summer.

Cheers
Bretto