The air temps dropped here with the storm. It’s in
the 40’s but should reach 68 today. The water cooled down a little again
too but a 3/2 and some 2mm socks is all you need to be comfortable for a
couple hours!
After I get this housing I’m saving for a trip out there
to meet you and Gloria, and surf some points. It’s looking more like a
Summer trip.
This
is a picture my buddy Chris Shultz (another Chris) sent me a few
minutes ago from the Poles. The swell is here! I’ll be on it today and tomorrow.
Nervous 😃! I know the guy on the wave Ross and he’s 6 feet tall.
Yeeeewwwww! I’m fueling up and drinking water. Gonna try to get some footage if the paddle is manageable!
Any tips on Barrel riding big powerful waves?
Super Stoked,
Rob
4 comments:
My main tips would low to no inflation for the paddle out i.e. swim like a seal and higher than you are used to inflation for riding.
There's a nice strategy for sighting down the shoulder of a tube on the Paul's rider's guide. I'll add that I think it's true that the safest place to wipe out is in the tube.
I think you'll know in about 10 seconds how well it works to swim out with a deflated mat. I personally need both arms to swim, especially in heavy surf.
Best way to get out in big surf is to take time to watch what the ocean is doing, time the sets, look at the currents, where the rips are, where the problem areas are. You can use a rip to help get out the back, sometimes.
You've already done the best thing you could do to handle bigger waves- go out a lot!
I took everyone’s advice and the first two days of this swell have been nothing short of Epic for me! It was like a surf trip at home, and the Boys and I had a blast! Some photos where taken but mostly we surfed, until we couldn’t surf anymore. I’ll have some pictures to share later this week! Mat surfing is such a magical way to enjoy the Ocean, I wouldn’t trade being a mat surfer for anything. The Visions I’ve seen on the back of this mat Enchant my Dreams and call me to the Ocean daily. Keep Spreading the Stoke! Yeeeeewwwwww!
Hmmm, yes. I imagine the deflated kick out works well or very poorly depending on whether you are "kick centric" or "paddle centric". I have always been somewhat of a weak paddler (all the way since logger days) but a reasonably strong kicker. Plenty of people are the opposite so I guess for them, torture to tie up an arm with a deflated mat.
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