Nov 17, 2008

Meanwhile in sunny Florida ...


This is from a friend in Florida. Thought y'all would like it. They still say y'all in Florida.

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I took that mat out on Sat just cuz y'all are always talking about it. It was like waist to rib glassy peelers. I paddled out in between these 2 old guys on LBs who weren't catching nothing. I think I interrupted their quiet time by the way they weren't looking at me. I caught a couple o' fun ones but they were all close out and I was trying to get my head in the barrel. A couple times I spun around backwards and the lip hit me in the middle of the back going the wrong way. You know I never laugh so much while surfing until I get on that damn mat. I was laughing so hard that the fun seemed to rub off on the old guys who started having a better go at it. But one wave came in that I actually locked into and went down the line. I was like "Damn, maybe there is something more to it than going straight!" After that I went and got the Repeat Offender and then I was all serious about it even though the old dudes left. It was breaking pretty darn good though, kinda like a 2 foot Uluwatu in reverse. I mean some of them would just peel perfect. A couple were contorted pig dog pits that you loose sight and have to feel your way and somehow it kicks you out the back and all your weights on your front foot with your back leg waving in the wind and your like "Damn, what was that?" and nobodys around to explain it to you.

I got the mat up here at work now, so I'll prolly be taking it out more. The blue side is all delaminated now. I think I used to use that side up but the other day I put that side down. I wonder if I'm loosing some control not having them grooves in it.

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1 comment:

mat max said...

All right!!! We got another author on board! It's about time. Now that the ice is broken, how 'bout it folks? The rest of you can step right up on the ol' soapbox here and speak your piece like Jay B did...