Nov 8, 2008

Forever Fun

Full circle back to 1962. It’s been three or four months since I got my new 4GFs, and all the other surf vehicles have been in dry dock the whole time. The surf has been excellent quite often and matting has satisfied all requirements. Funny how I’ve gone back to square one! It’s just so intimate and elegant to kick around on a super-lightweight fully developed fabric envelope wave skimmer. No matter the conditions, there is enjoyment to be had. Blown out go outs. Closedout sessions. Perfect peelers. Bouncy backwash... It’s all good clean entertainment.

I’m still throwing the mat over the shorebreak just like 4 ½ decades ago. Keeping at smiling inanely while racing shoreward on my own personal hovercraft, at a seemingly impossible rate of knots. Continuing to be fascinated by this eminently simple pursuit of the innermost limits of pure fun! Hats off to the modern mat makers for their gift of these amazing finely-tuned squishy-blunt instruments so intricately designed expressly for remaining ultimately young and free in our bodies, minds and souls!


Anonymous said...

Dammit Max! If you don't stop posting these epic visions of mat surfing, I'll have to keep posting cheesecake in order to compete!

Okemah said...

Amen to both!